Fashion Forward – Review: Penhaligon’s Tralala

By Tara

Tralala; what a fantastic name for a perfume. It’s very hard to say it to yourself in anything other than a sing-songy voice. It’s what a young girl would trill while skipping through a meadow on a sunny day picking daisies and lacing them into her hair.

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Carefree and more than a little kooky, this unusual moniker combined with the clownish doll’s head bottle with oversized bow-tie, means that expectations for this fragrance are definitely set to “kitsch”.

Tralala is the product of a collaboration between Penhaligon’s and off-beat British fashion house, Meadham Kirchhoff.

The clothing label was established in London in 2007 and is known for mixing old-fashioned vignettes with modern aesthetics to come up with something frivolous and fresh. Their style is opulent, idiosyncratic and darkly romantic.

Penhaligon’s have scented the Meadham Kirchhoff catwalk shows for the past nine seasons, so this joint perfume project seems like a natural progression. The fragrance is intended to represent “the surreal and fantastical world their designs represent”.

Tralala has just been launched as a 100ml EDP and as with several other recent releases from Penhaligon’s (Vaara, Sartorial), the perfumer is Bertrand Dauchaufour.

Top notes; aldehydes, whiskey, ambrette seed butter, galbanum, violet leaf
Heart notes; leather, tuberose, ylang ylang, incense, orris, carnation
Base notes; patchouli, cedarwood, opoponax, vetiver, heliotrope, myrrh, musk and vanilla.

This varied assortment looks like it’s been spewed out by a random note list generator. Again we begin to suspect the result will be suitably bizarre.

The opening is definitely on message. It’s an oddball mix of clashing accords. There are lots of aldehydes, quite a bit of spicy saffron, a splash of whiskey and for a while, the cool metallic twang of violet leaf.

The aldehydes are very soapy and airy, creating a retro haze over the more edgy top notes. Unlike the customary fizzy aldehydes which shoot up and then disappear like fireworks, this bright mist hovers above the skin for the best part of an hour.

I suspect that with so much going on, different skin types (and noses) will pick up different facets. On me, the heart is chiefly a very supple suede underneath sweet florals with a few fronds of saffron left-over from the opening. The effect is soft, girly and lightly powdered.

This stage is not dissimilar in feel to Bertrand Dauchaufour’s Traversée du Bosphore for L’Artisan Parfumeur.

The warm base is resinous with vanilla, some fluffy heliotrope and a spiral of smoke from the opoponax, á la Shalimar. It’s a very conventional ending, but I guess even fashionistas like to pull on a pair of comfy jogging pants come the end of the day.

Despite some weighty ingredients, Tralala tinkles away at a high register. It makes a style statement but never feels remotely loud or base heavy. It has very good longevity, lasting about eight hours on me.

Although it’s not going to be everyone’s cup of (English Breakfast) tea, I wouldn’t call it challenging. That somewhat strange and soapy opening is the quirkiest it gets. Like that classic British foodstuff, Marmite, you’ll either find the perfume’s whimsical nature endearing or you won’t.

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Penhaligon’s describe Tralala as “counter culture couture” and that’s what it is for the most part: a refined and feminine mélange of differing elements in a fragrant game of mix and match. It juxtaposes vintage with modern, hot with cold and childishness with sophistication.

It could prove to be this season’s must-have accessory for those fashion mavens who like to stand out from the crowd without pushing the boundaries too far.

Have you tried Tralala yet? Are you tempted?

Posted in By Tara, Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Penhaligon's | Tagged , , , , , | 43 Comments

People In Perfumeland – Lisa Bonfatti Of Campomarzio 70 In Rome

Today I welcome Lisa Bonfatti, who works for the perfumery and niche perfume distributor Campomarzio70 in Rome, Italy (who represents Vero Kern for instance).

Lisa is a perfumista herself and I’m sure I am not the only one who is a bit envious about her job. She gets to earn money by doing what she is passionate about. Who doesn’t dream about that?

Let’s see how Lisa answered my questonnaire…

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A good day starts with… a coffee and a kiss.

I’d never leave the house without… perfume!

I always feel good when… heart and mind agree with each other!

The next thing I want to buy is… perfumes, what else!

The place I always come back to is… Germany, my second home, and the French atlantic coast.

My personal style is… personal! A bit of this, a bit of that, a look to the past, another to the future. Almost far from the present!

My favorite perfume… I just can’t answer that! There are too many. So I will say… the next one!

When I travel I always … get frustrated because I have to choose among too many perfumes I would like to take with me.

To relax I need… home, silence and my dog.

When I have a bad day… I try to breathe, listen to music, indulge in melancholy and squeeze my dog!

I like to gift people with… books.

I find my inspiration… in unexpected moments.

Something I would never want to miss… is the ocean.

My last mistake was… Mistake? What’s a mistake? ( 😉 )

In my fridge there is always… butter and wine.

On my nightstand I keep… books and my cell phone.

The perfect weekend starts with… a cozy lie in and delicious breakfast in bed with music and love.

My role model is… it would be good if it were me!

Something I always want to be asked in questionnaires like this is… What would you like to be asked in a questionnaire like this?  🙂

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I could do with Lisa’s ideal start into the weekend as well, I must say.

Thank you for being a good sport and agreeing to do this, Lisa!

Posted in Interview | Tagged , , | 18 Comments

Old Leather- Review: CB I Hate Perfume Old Leather Premium Accord

Hey there Olfactoria’s Travelers,

Portia from Australian Perfume Junkies and Perfume Posse here and thrilled to be spending some time with you all.

Today I am looking at a fragrance from one of the most interesting and enigmatic of the Independent Perfumers. Christopher Brosius is controversial, seemingly just by being who he is, it doesn’t feel forced or like he is constantly trying to court controversy but even down to his choice of business name I find him and his fragrant aesthetic wonderfully interesting and thought provoking.

 

I thought the box so fabulous that I had to at least picture it here. More than 40 15ml Parfums. $10,500. There’s my budget gone for anything else this year, and I’d be eating Ramen noodles 6 days a week. I don’t wish for it myself but I am glad that I live in a world where such a thing is possible.

Old Leather: Premium Accord. I think some of you are wondering why Old Leather, others are like Premium Accord? Yep, don’t worry. It’s not as hard as it looks. An accord is a set of fragrant ingredients put together to create a smell unlike any of themselves on their own. So you could have 20 ingredients that are put together in such a way that they smell quite a bit like fresh cut lilies, or another of 13 ingredients that smell like buttered popcorn etc etc. These accords are then mixed together to make another fragrance, just in DIOR’s J’Adore the base has four named* accords: Blackcurrent, Cedar, Musk, Vanilla.

Old Leather then is an accord that Christopher Brosius uses in his fragrances but that he also thinks has its own intrinsic value as a stand alone perfume. Why is it a Premium Accord? Because they have been created, the 10 most popular of his accords, at a double concentration into Premium Perfume Absolute, Water Perfume and 2 ML Travel/Trial Premium Absolute, which is expensive and fiddly to do and so they are Premium. It’s pretty exciting and I feel like I’m at the fragrant coal face here. To be honest I think Christopher Brosius is cool.

premium_accords Smoky Tobacco CBIHPPhoto Stolen CB I Hate Perfumes

So what do you do with a Premium Accord? Well, you can wear it alone as your SOTD (Scent Of The Day) sprayed/dabbed on skin or clothes, you can mix and match any of the 10 in the set or if you love your Shalimar but wish it was more leathery then you can amp up your leatheriness with a spritz of Old Leather. I would spray/swipe in a second area of my body or clothes though so the fragrances can waft into a blend rather that causing chemical reactions on your person.

How does it smell? I have a decant of the Water Perfume and I find it soft and gentle, yes leather but the leather of a Chesterfield couch or a handbag store. Yes it’s leather but it’s finished leather and that slightly plastic smell of refined finishes. This is not the tack room of a horse stud, nor is it newly from the tanners and dyers. The couch has been in use, perhaps in a hotel lobby so it’s picked up some of the day to day scents of humanity, the bag is still in its first season of use but it is a favourite day to day use carry all. As the scent gets into its heart it gets more bitter and there’s some darkness/herbal/humus scent creeping in under the expensive leather, like it has ended up in a jungle. Then it calms right back down and takes about 3-5 hours to leave my ability to smell it.

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CB I Hate Perfume has Old Leather from $12/2ml parfum sample
Surrender To Chance has Old Leather Water Perfume currently for only $3/ml

Have you tried any of the CB I Hate Perfume Premium Accords? What were your impressions?

Portia x

*Quite often for brevity, or sheer bloody-mindedness, they will only give out the featured accords or make some rubbish accords up or in fact get every damned thing wrong and leave us all flailing….. You get my drift?

 

Posted in By Portia, CB - I Hate Perfume, Fragrance Reviews, Leather | Tagged , , , , , | 13 Comments

Monday Question – Your Top Five Part IV: Favorite Things

Today I want to know about material things you love. After books, music and movies, we take a look at the things we love to surround ourselves with, the things we love to look at, collect or admire from afar. What are the to five things or activitites you enjoy? What is the stuff you love? Please share your list with us!

 

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My Answer:

 

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Edward Hopper is hands-down my favorite artist. I can’t really explain why, his work just speaks to me as it is the case with the best pieces of art – too much rational explanation takes away the magic. (Nothing against art history -on the contrary; context is important, knowledge is power – but sometimes the best things need and want no explanations).

 

Scarves

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Hermès is my mother ship, no news here. But I love scarves in general, having something protective about my person feels good. A very expensive, very beautiful security blanket maybe?

 

Leather Goods

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I love leather. Small things like notebooks, wallets, card holders, pouches and big things like handbags. Beautiful high quality leather that is skillfully treated and made into useful things makes me happy. I don’t need (rather avoid) ostentatious labels, it is the craftsmanship I go for. My favorite artisans are Robert Horn Vienna, Smythson of Bond Street and Hermès, although the latter remains in the realm of dreams, as I am neither equipped nor prepared to spend that kind of money.

 

Food avocado toast bon appetit I have to say food is a very important thing for me. I love treating myself. I go through food phases, and the avocado on bruschetta (or some other toasted bread or even better Schüttelbrot) is my favorite right now. So good! What else can’t I live without? Chocolate, nougat, marzipan, macarons… a habit which clearly necessitates the next thing on my list:

 

Yoga/Pilates 30-Day Challenge on DoYouYoga.com

 

 

I recently started going to Pilates classes here in Vienna and I’m completely happy with them. My only regret is that I didn’t do that a long time ago! In addition I do yoga at home with the lovely Erin Motz whom who can see in the video above, She is great and I find myself craving the fantastic stretches and poses of yoga daily. Very unusual behaviour for me! 😉

 

What are the five things you love at the moment?

Posted in Monday Question | Tagged | 61 Comments

Big Sample Giveaway – Get To Know Niche Perfumes

I haven’t done a giveaway for a while, so I thought today one lucky reader should have the chance to win a big sample lot from my own collection.

I’d rather see these go to someone who is excited to explore them, than see them go bad unloved in my extensive sample storage box.

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I’m going to ship this treasure trove anywhere in the world. To be eligible to win leave a comment on this post stating three perfumes you always wanted to smell but didn’t get the chance yet.

The giveaway is open until next Thursday, May 15, I’ll post the winner on the blog on Friday.
As always, I cannot be responsible for lost packages or postal blunders. The samples are from my personal collection and I paid for the majority of them.

Good luck everyone!

Posted in Giveaway | Tagged , , | 112 Comments

Powder Puff – Review: Huitieme Art Parfums Poudre de Riz

By Tara

Rice is one of the notes I’m drawn to in perfumery. It’s unusual and I like the way it can be comforting or chic. In Champaca by Ormonde Jayne it has the aroma of basmati rice and in L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Safran Troublant it’s saffron scented rice pudding.

When listed as rice powder (poudre de riz), it usually has the evocative powdery aroma of cosmetics. An example of this effect can be found in Blanc Violette by Histoires de Parfums.

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Poudre de Riz by Pierre Guillaume’s Huitieme Art was launched in 2012 and features tiare, coconut milk, vanilla, rice powder, maple sap, caramel, sandalwood, iris, cedar, tonka bean, tolu balsam, benzoin and damask rose.

Proceedings begin with very sweet, rose-scented powder which for some reason makes me think of strawberries. It’s very pretty, feminine and youthful, so those with “old lady perfume fear” needn’t worry. This definitely isn’t a dated powder bomb which could bring up negative associations with great aunts.

Poudre de Riz showcases a very finely milled cosmetic powder which feels more retro than truly vintage.

It reminds me of one of those striking young women in super-cool Spitalfields, east London, who walk around perfectly made-up in 1940s-style clothes with their hair in a victory roll.

As the powder settles, it becomes soapy but only for a short time. This is more like the lather from a creamy white bar than those nose tickling aldehydic bubbles. I suspect it is actually the tiare flower (a variety of gardenia) creating this fresh and soapy effect.

Unlike most, my heart drops when I see coconut listed as a note but here the coconut milk stays in the background, adding a pleasant creaminess. The accents of tiare and coconut give it a subtle tropical vibe. You don’t quite feel like you’ve suddenly landed on a beach but it does give you that lovely relaxed, faraway feel.

Three hours in and we’re now resting on a spongy mattress of blow-torched caramel and almond flavoured vanilla. It’s a fabulous drydown which lasts for an outstandingly long time.

The inspiration behind Poudre de Riz was this line in the 1908 novel “L’Enfer” (The Inferno) by Henri Barbusse:

“The air in the disordered shuttered room was heavy with a mixture of odours: Soap, face powder, the sharp tang of cologne…”

In this section of the book a voyeur is spying on a woman having an affair in the next room at a boarding house. He watches her hastily make herself up in an attempt to hide what she’s been getting up to, just prior to a visit from her husband.

I can’t say I detect the disguised sin from the above scene in Poudre de Riz. There’s nothing “intimate” about it that I can tell. If anything, I find it rather coquettish. It’s playing at being the femme fatale but it’s really rather romantic. It does hold onto you closely, a little like being enclosed in a small, steamy room, but that’s all. I’m fine with this but if you’re hoping for the illicit aspect of the backstory you could be disappointed.

There’s something decidedly dreamy and joyful about Poudre de Riz and I can imagine that some heat would bring out the best in it. I love the later stages but the level of candy sweetness earlier on prevents it from being a must-have for me.

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If you don’t think this would bother you and you’re also fond of cosmetic perfumes (such as Malle’s Lipstick Rose) and/or paradise island fragrances with a vanilla base (like Annick Goutal’s Songes) then Poudre de Riz is well worth investigating.

Do you like rice notes in fragrance? What are your favourite perfumes featuring this note?

Posted in By Tara, Fragrance Reviews, Powdery | Tagged , , , , , | 35 Comments

People In Perfumeland – Victoria Jent Of EauMG

Today I welcome Victoria Jent of the popular perfume and beauty blog EauMG. Victoria has been blogging for six years now, so she is a grey eminence among this young tribe of perfume writers. She writes concise reviews, often puts together fantastic gift guides for Mother’s Day, Christmas, you name it, and she never seems to tire, which is why I admire her immensely.

It is was her birthday as well as her blog’s birthday yesterday, so my best wishes dear Victoria! Here’s to the next six years!

Now let us take a look at Victoria, the person behind EauMG! (Still the best blog title EVER, in my opinion!)

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A good day starts with... not being rushed.

I’d never leave the house without… my druthers.

I always feel good when… I’m spending time with those that I love.

My favorite thing in the world is… eating. I love trying new foods, restaurants and cooking.

The next thing I want to buy is a leather gaucho hat. Don’t ask. Reference “personal style” below.

The place I always come back to is… a state of existential crisis.

My personal style is… reject Disney villainess. Dark, dramatic and too many animal prints.

My favorite perfume…you can’t ask a perfume blogger that! I have too many favorites!

When I travel I always … eat and drink too much.

To relax I need… wine.

When I have a bad day… I whine and drink wine.

I like to gift people with… wine. And my lovely presence. But, they seem to appreciate the wine more.

I find my inspiration… It sounds cheesy but I’ll have to say everywhere. The city , travels, strangers, B-films and old album covers. If you aren’t feeling inspired, you aren’t using your observation skills. Kick back and take it all in…

Something I would never want to miss… is an opportunity to satisfy my wanderlust.

My last mistake was… something I’m currently unaware of.  But, I’m sure there is someone waiting to tell me all about it…

In my fridge there is always… sparkling wine. And fancy cheeses. You never know when you’ll need to celebrate!

On my nightstand I keep… I actually don’t have a nightstand! Blame my current minimalist phase.

The perfect weekend starts with… brunch with friends (after sleeping in as late as I want).

My role model is… I don’t really feel I have one but if I have to name someone I would say RuPaul.

Something I always want to be asked in questionnaires like this is… if you could be on any reality TV show, which would it be? And why?

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Now we really need to know which reality show character Victoria would like to be! (I asked, but we had some emailing problems, so I hope to get the answer today in the comments.)

I completely feel with Victoria when she says she always comes back to a state of existential crisis. I do too. And it’s not fun – usually. I guess that is where the wine comes in… 😉

Are you an EauMG fan like me?

Posted in Interview | Tagged , , | 24 Comments

Riding With the Gauchos – Review: Lorenzo Villoresi Yerbamate

By Sandra

I was born in Buenos Aires, Argentina and lived there for a few years. Being so young during that time has left me with many child memories such as hot languid summer days, swimming daily in our pool and the wild parties my parents threw in the backyard by the asado – a large outdoor grill area. Of course I have other memories too, but this memory is about one particular trip which left an impression on a 3.5 year old.

Mom and Dad came in one morning and quickly got me out of bed and dressed me and then went and fetched my baby sister. We were in a hurry. It was mid March, so late summer and still warm and sunny. Friends of theirs needed some help. I had no idea what awaited me; I just assumed it was an adventure like any other I had already had. We hopped on a plane and flew to Cordoba which is northwest of Buenos Aires and we were met at the airport by a driver. Still sleepy from waking up early and the short flight I was looking forward to the drive ahead.

The girls were fascinated by the cows and calves

from left: Sandra, her sister and her mother

We were going to a friend’s estancia to help the calves. It was calving season and the calves were being attacked by hundreds of falcons and were dying. Dad was asked to come and help. I remember being quite livid that Dad was going to go and shoot at something. So, quietly sitting in the backseat of the car I stared out the window and wondered what was going to happen.

Sun was streaming in and the windows were cracked open so my sister and I had a breeze in the backseat with Mom. The driver told us we were approaching the estancia and we turned onto a dirt road lined with eucalyptus trees on both sides. I could see the vast pampas outside and the never ending blue sky, but no cows yet. The tree lined drive also had a fence with wooden posts which were evenly spaced. As if it were yesterday I remember that on each fence post sat a small owl. Excitedly I pointed them out to my Mom who also noticed that the owls were real and that indeed each post was occupied by one.

I can only assume that the house on the estancia was quite large and accomodating for the family and their help. After we all got settled in we were driven out to the grassy fields to where the herd of cows was grazing. Dad went out with his friend with a weapon of some sort in hand. While we waited at the fence, I climbed up to see what the commotion was all about. Then I saw. I understood why the calves had to be helped. The falcons were swooping down on the newborns and eating their eyes, blinding them so that they would stop and could be eaten.

1976 Daddy and Ian shot a falcon

Imagine seeing all of this at 3.5! The men went out and made a whole lot of noise in an attempt to scare the falcons away. After all of this excitement we were driven back to the main house and were welcomed with a big asado. I remember the gauchos sitting around with their special knives eating meat and vegetables and most importantly drinking mate tea.

Mom and Dad do not drink mate but lots of our friends did. They would pour the tea leaves into the gourd and drink it with a bombilla and pass it around. The tea has a very distinct earthy smell and to this day I love the smell and taste of it. My favorite brand of mate has mountain herbs in it which rounds out the flavor beautifully.

Fast forward several decades. Early on when I was just getting into perfumes I was introduced to Lorenzo Villoresi’s Yerbamate and fell in love with it immediately. It took me straight back to that memorable day outside of Cordoba with all the heat, yellowish fields, earth and blue sky.

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Fragrantica lists the notes for Yerbamate as follows:

Top notes are citruses, tea, mint, terragon, brazilian rosewood, ylang-ylang, green notes, grass and mate; middle notes are lavender, green notes, tea, grass, mate and hay; base notes are galbanum, french labdanum, oakmoss, patchouli, vetiver, spices, tea, woody notes, powdery notes and green notes.

Yerbamate opens up with hefty citrus notes and a blast of cool mint. The opening is quite green and refreshing on a hot summer day. It is citrusy for a good ten to fifteen minutes and then the hint of mate appears. It tingles the nose and all my other senses, awakening my memory. I see vast land around me with not a house or car in sight. I am one with nature. The heat moves in with the perfume giving me the sense of being warm. After a good long hour the perfume morphs yet again and becomes warmer with hints of grass and stronger mate. I tried to smell the lavender but alas, I cannot detect it.

When I wear this perfume in summer, the grass and hay notes are quite pronounced. It blooms in the heat bringing out the nuances that I find otherwise hard to detect. The heat allows the vetiver to shine in the end as well.

Sandra is holding on to her hair, as the wind howled across the pampa

The saved cattle in the background

Now is time to wear it to get the sense of drinking mate with herbs. The drydown is quite a different experience compared with the opening. It sits warmly on my skin, creating an aura surrounding me. I am no longer living in the city. I can smell the raw dry earth after a good thunderstorm and downpour. The steam is rising off of the ground and a powdery green mist caresses my skin. If I put my nose to my skin I can smell the mint and the vetiver as well.

This is a fun perfume and I recommend it to anyone who is looking for something a little different.

Photos by Sandra
Posted in By Sandra, Citrus, Fragrance Reviews | Tagged , , , , , | 14 Comments

Monday Question – Your Top Five Part III: Movies

We looked at your favorite books, favorite music and today the question is:

What are your top five favorite movies of all time?

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My Answer:

Okay, here we go, in no particular order or ranking:

1. Iris (Director: Richard Eyre, with Dame Judy Dench, Kate Winslet and Jim Broadbent)  The life story of British writer and philosopher Iris Murdoch ending in her battle with Alzheimer’s disease told from the perspective of her husband. So sad, but so wonderful.

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2. Moulin Rouge (Director: Baz Luhrman, with Nicole Kidman and Ewan McGregor) Epic! Fantastic! Without compare! The soundtrack nearly made it on my music list last week.

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3. The Hours (Director: Stephen Daldry, with Meryl Streep, Nicole Kidman, Julianne Moore and Ed Harris) The interwoven stories of three women, one of them Virginia Woolf, have left a permanent impression on my mind. I find myself thinking about small details of this movie often, even though I haven’t seen it for a long time, because it is almost too much for me to take.

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4. Dirty Dancing (Director: Emile Ardolino, with Patrick Swayze and Jennifer Grey) I know, it is surely not the best movie ever made, but we are talking impressive to a teen here. And impressed I was! I loved the dancing and I loved Patrick. What can I say, this one was perfectly timed for my own coming of age.

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5. Four Weddings And A Funeral (Pure British charm. I learned English with this movie. I adored the actors’ accents – especially Matthew’s – and I still know every dialogue by heart. Definitely the movie I have seen most often in my life and that I still love.

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Honorable Mentions: Quills (Geoffrey Rush, Joaquin Phoenix and Kate Winslet), Black Swan (Natalie Portman, Vincent Cassel), Gorillas In The Mist (Sigourney Weaver), Schindler’s List (Liam Neeson), The Shawshank Redemption (Tom Hanks, Morgan Freeman), Usual Suspects (Kevin Spacey – The One and Only!), Shine (Geoffrey Rush);

Not an easy choice once more, but easier than the last ones.

What are the movies that left an enduring impression on you?

Posted in Fragrance Reviews, Monday Question | Tagged , , | 95 Comments

Emancipated Rose – Vero Profumo Rozy Voile d’Extrait

By Tara

Rozy Voile d’Extrait has triggered so many images, thoughts and feelings in me, that at times this post may read more like the ramblings of a woman possessed than a straight-forward review. It has truly captured my imagination.

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At a recent workshop, Vero Kern talked about the similarities between tattoos and perfume. How they are both linked to identification and how perfume, like a tattoo, goes onto and under the skin. Well, Rozy is a perfume that has gotten under my skin in more ways than one.

Vero also told us that she had wanted to create a rosy perfume rather than a rose perfume. This is worth bearing in mind because this is not a rose soliflore. While rose is central to the theme there is so much more to it. Rozy Voile d’Extrait is intense, multi-faceted and forever evolving. A rose unfurls slowly to expose its heart and so does Rozy. Each wear seems to reveal something new.

The Italian actress Anna Magnani, star of the 1955 film “The Rose Tattoo”, was the muse behind this new release from Vero Profumo. Magnani was described by Time magazine as “‘the most explosive emotional actress of her generation”. She had a genuine intensity and fearless honesty that captivated audiences and won her a Best Actress Oscar. With unconventional looks by Hollywood standards, it was the expressiveness and authenticity of her acting which set her apart.

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The notes given for Rozy Voile d’Extrait are rose d’orient, tuberose, cassis, honey, spices, sandalwood and labdanum.

Cassis (blackcurrant) and melon first take over my skin with just a brief waft of camphor from the tuberose. This is the only time in its development that I’m aware of the tuberose and it works well at off-setting the ripe fruit. It is a bold and vibrant beginning to a long, rewarding trip.

How to describe the honey? It is unlike any honey note I have encountered before. It’s dark and and smoky with an oriental quality to it, as if laced liberally with incense and dusted with spice.

The deep, languid rose sits at the core of it all, pulling everything together through centrifugal force.

In the early stages the whole effect is hot and steamy, extremely close and almost airless. It’s overblown but never suffocates. It stays on just the right side of the tipping point.

The base depicts the she-wolf at rest. It reveals a downy soft underbelly of labdanum, vanilla and sandalwood, with just a little powder and a few twists of smoke. It is warm, seductive and sweetly balsamic.

This is not a perfume to be taken lightly or worn casually. Although it’s not the sillage bomb you might expect, you can’t just spray and forget about it. It’s incredibly potent and its longevity is unparalleled. To put it on your skin is to make a commitment. You let it identify itself with you and you with it, just like that rose tattoo.

If you’d prefer a perfume with a more stable personality, then try Rozy EDP. By comparison, the Voile is unrestrained and unrepentant. I love it all the more for that. It’s a very special perfume full of drama and presence.

On reflection I don’t see more darkness than light in Rozy Voile d’Extrait because it is so perfectly balanced. There is as much raucous laughter as there is fiery temper. Some have the impression that it is scary, but while it’s not a placid perfume by any means, I don’t find it unsettling either. It has too much vivacity and radiance for that.

“Whenever Magnani laughs or cries (which is often), it’s as if you’ve never seen anyone laugh or cry before: has laughter ever been so burstingly joyful or tears so shatteringly sad?”

– John DiLeo, Film Historian

It may not be relaxing to spend any length of time in the company of someone who expresses such extremes of emotion, but you will feel all the more alive for it.

In Rozy Voile d’Extrait, Vero Kern has found a unique way to present the rose in perfumery. It’s not natural and photorealistic, merely innocent or purely dark. She has eschewed the traditional rose stereotypes and gone for something entirely abstract and all encompassing.

Like people and the rose itself, Rozy Voile d’Extrait is full of contradictions but still feels cohesive. The flower has its velvety petals and its thorns, its vivid greenness and its earthy roots. In the same way, Rozy has its fruit and its smoke, its flowers and its spice, its honey and its resins. Vero reconciles all these elements, making them as one.

Nothing about it is superfluous. Immense time and thought has clearly gone into every nuance. Rozy Voile d’Extrait is a fully formed, vital personality with all its inherent complexity. Its character has a wild side, a sensual side, an irreverent side and a purring feline side. All are integral and all are embraced.

anna-magnani-rose-tattoo-burt-lancaster

So often women fragment themselves or are fragmented by others. They are labelled “the homemaker”, “the career woman”, “the ingénue”, “the whore”, “the spinster”, “the femme fatale”, “the ice maiden” and so on.

For me, Rozy Voile d’Extrait integrates all these disparate archetypes and represents the woman as a whole. She refuses to be defined or confined.

This is female liberation reflected in perfume and it is breathtaking to behold.

Posted in By Tara, Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Rose, Vero Profumo | Tagged , , , , , , | 40 Comments