Ambivalence – Review: Hermes Un Jardin Aprés La Mousson

Posted on March 21, 2011 by Olfactoria

Un Jardin aprés la Mousson, a garden after the Monsoon, is a creation by Jean-Claude Ellena for Hermes from 2008, the third in the Jardins series.

The notes include cardamom, coriander, pepper, ginger, ginger flower and vetiver accord.

I like to have complete sets, so when there are fragrance series like the Voyages by Dior I recently reviewed or the Jardins, I am wont to strive to smell them all, for the sake of completing the set, even if I am not primarily interested in the concept of a scent. This may be a good or a bad trait I have, what it has invariably led me to were surprises.

I did not expect the last of the Dior series that I tried – Escale à Portofino – to be the one I most liked, I just wanted to complete the set.

It is the same with Jardin aprés la Mousson, I needed to complete the set, especially since the fourth fragrance in the series is looming on the horizon. (Jardin sur le Toit is slated for launch in April.)

I remembered vaguely having read about melon, aquatic notes, spices. Not something I would seek out, but it being an Ellena creation, what could go wrong? Right?

Upon first sniff I was not immediately delighted with Jardin aprés la Mousson. I am not a big fan of melon, and this one smells like melon gone over ever so slightly mixed with cardamom, a cool spice with a citrus twist. So I am glad when the melon starts to fade slowly, to be replaced by a warm, watery, somehow reedy smell that combines cool spices and vetiver.

If not my personal favorite, Un Jardin aprés la Mousson is the most interesting and challenging and plain weird of the trio. Or maybe of all of Ellena’s oeuvre as I know so far.

This is a fragrance that makes you stop and sniff and ask “What is that?” instead of immediately falling into a category like “Ah, citrus cologne!” or “A fig perfume.” like the two others in the line could be easily, if reductionistically (not sure this is an actual word, but it sure sounds good!), quantified.

Its main virtue for me is its ambivalence. I am attracted and repulsed in equal measures. I want to get rid of that gone over melon and at the same time cannot stop sniffing my hand.

I do not enjoy aquatic notes, yet here I love the waterlogged transparency that it conveys. I am not exactly a sucker for vetiver, here it is oddly compelling in its grey-greenish, swampy-boggy and simultaneously dry grassiness.

It is a perfume of contradictions, of simultaneously existing antagonists with neither one winning nor cancelling the other out. Un Jardin aprés la Mousson exists in a state of high tension because of these antagonistic forces, and so do I when wearing it, because of the ambivalent feelings it evokes. Relaxing it is not. Interesting? Oh yes!

And who knew Ellena could do weird?

Image source: imagesdeparfums.fr, packerranter.com, some rights reserved, thank you!
Posted in Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Fruity, Hermès | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 22 Comments

Monday Question: Is There A Perfume That Has A Special Meaning For You?

Posted on March 21, 2011 by Olfactoria

Do you have a perfume that reminds you of a special person or situation?

Is there a fragrance that brings back memories or feelings that are very important to you?

Is there a scent that brings you to your knees in a mere whiff?

My Answer:

There is a perfume that reminds me of someone, although I have only smelled it recently.
It is not the perfume itself I remember from the past, since it is new, but it has qualities that conjure up a person and a situation in such a strong and clear and direct way, I was astounded.

Once more the sense of smell humbles me with its power over us.
That is something I thoroughly enjoy, but that also makes me wonder how much we are manipulated and led by our noses, whether we are aware of it or not.
Which perfume you ask?

This one. 🙂

 

Image source: gomonews.de some rights reserved, thank you!
Posted in Monday Question | Tagged , , | 16 Comments

Last Week In Perfumeland – Weekend Link Love

Posted on March 20, 2011 by Olfactoria

Do you remember how you perceived time as a child?

I clearly remember the feeling of absolute freedom in the face of nine weeks of summer vacation, no school, no homework, no pressure for nine weeks. That seemed like a lifetime and it felt like it too. So much could – and was – done in nine weeks. It was heavenly.

Then when I was pregnant for the first time, forty weeks seemed like several years too. I had the notion being pregnant would be pretty much a lifestyle choice for the unforseeable future. Then having a small baby was my status quo that I assumed would last forever if not longer.

Now, I seem to be catching on that is is not so. Tempus fugit.

Suddenly I am afraid of waking up one day, old and wrinkly and still assuming my life will begin when…it will all get better when…I will do this and that after…I will…and then I won’t anymore.

Do you ever feel this way?

On a more cheerful note, time also flies when reading great articles in Perfumeland. Here are a few from last week I particularly enjoyed.

I loved to read Donna’s European adventures as a teenager she lets us in on in her review of Ineke Fieldnotes from Paris, interesting perfume, lovely story on Perfume Smellin’ Things.

Victoria of Bois de Jasmin posted a very interesting article about functional fragrance, an underestimated field in perfumery.

Krista on Scent Of The Day talks about a vintage perfume in the most enchanting style, through revisiting old movies. Oh the glamour of that time…

Gaia of The Non-Blonde reviewed a very interesting perfume in the past week, Hilde Soliani Il Vs Iris. Knowing how much I love iris, this “happy iris” is a must try for me.

Victoria on EauMG has reviewed Ambre Fétiche this week (as did I), one perfume, two different takes.

Suzanne’s Perfume Journal is taking a closer look at Hermessence Iris Ukiyoé, in honor of the tragedy in Japan.

And finally, did you get the chance to take a look at Axum’s new blog “Scents of Place”? I really like her writing and look forward to what is to come.

To the aid of the people in Japan Libertin Louison of niche brand Technique Indiscrete created a lavender cologne called “For Them”. Take a look at my post about it and order a bottle. I cannot say how it smells yet, but will as soon as I receive mine. I hope many of you will join in this admirable and generous effort that Technique Indiscrete has taken on.

Have a great Sunday!

Image source: VinatgeAdBrowser.com
Posted in Weekend Link Love | Tagged , , | 8 Comments

Olfactoria On Perfume Smellin’ Things

Posted on March 19, 2011 by Olfactoria

Another Saturday on PST…Addicted to perfume? Or is it just love?

Please join me over there today for my newest post.

Posted in Ramblings | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

The 200th Post

Posted on March 19, 2011 by Olfactoria

I just realized that my 200th post would be an announcement that I am on PST again today, and since that is a bit unromantic I decided to post a little look back over the ride I had in the last months since the inception of OT.

Olfactoria’s Travels published its first post on October 30, 2010.

I was delighted that apparently three other people besides my husband had somehow found it.

A lot has happened since then. In those short months my blog has become an important outlet for me, I view it as my job, actually. My time for me, my project apart from changing diapers and playing Knights and Pirates. My place for thoughts, feelings, adult conversations and shared passions.

I found so many lovely people in this short time, that have taken on an important part in my life, I wouldn’t want to miss any of you any more.

I love writing, I love perfume, my blog offers the ideal place to combine the two. But it would be nothing without the people to take it upon themselves to visit, read, comment. I am so grateful to all of you, whether you read silently or engage me in conversation, without you it would be a lonely venture indeed.

So here is to the next 200 posts and more, I hope. I do not plan on stopping any time soon, I hope you do not plan on staying away.

Thank you for making Olfactoria’s Travels into something I am proud of.

Warm hugs,

B

Posted in Ramblings | Tagged , , | 38 Comments

Never Say Never – Review: Annick Goutal Ambre Fétiche

Posted on March 18, 2011 by Olfactoria

For the longest time I hated Ambre Fétiche with a passion, it was my nemesis, the most unwearable amber I knew. The strong feelings stemmed from the fact that for one everybody seemed to love it and perceive it entirely differently then I did, and what is more, from the fact that I am the proud owner of a full 100ml bottle of said hated fragrance that came to be in my possession, because I am prone to stupid, impulsive, unsniffed buys, or rather have been, because those times are over.

But that bottle is unopened and untouched, since I received a sample of this perfume before it arrived, I took one whiff from that sample and was thoroughly put off. I tried several times and was nothing short of disgusted with the scent everyone raved about.

Well, moving on…

But my dear friend Dee persisted and sent me a decant from her bottle, because I had suggested that maybe my sample was off or mislabeled, since I saw it so differently from everyone else.

And – you already guess it – I loved Dee’s Ambre Fétiche. My god-awful sample was mislabeled, I don’t know what is in it (would be interesting though!), but I am so glad it is not Ambre Fétiche.

Thank you Dee, through sending that decant you also gave me a “new” full bottle! 🙂

So, after a long journey that turned out to have been with the wrong fragrance, I arrived to worship at the amber altar that is Ambre Fétiche.

It was was released in 2007 and created by Goutal in-house perfumer Isabelle Doyen, as part of a three perfume collection called Les Orientalistes, also featuring Myrrhe Ardente and Encens Flamboyant, which in the meantime includes a fourth, Musc Nomade. Notes include amber, frankincense, labdanum, styrax, benzoin, iris, vanilla and leather.

Ambre Fétiche is not at all sweet, an important point with me, and it opens rather voluptuously and fiercely with a blast of incense, iris and amber that doesn’t leave any room for doubt what this perfume is about.

Strangely though it is not too much at any time. No shy flower, for sure, it manages to proclaim its AMBER-ness in a clear voice without having to resort to shouting.

It is mostly linear although there is a softening sensation after that initial entrance of the star ingredient. It has excellent lasting power and stays on the skin, albeit closely, for the entire day.

Ambre Fétiche makes me feel very daring, since it is so far from my normal soft, flowery or cologne-style unobtrusive self. But I find myself gravitating towards more sensual scents at the moment, maybe as a counter-movement to the mass of (often disappointing) summer fragrances I have been testing for the blog, maybe because of the interesting and unexpected, slightly Janus-headed facet such a perfume gives me.

I look so innocent, a blonde mom pushing a stroller in flat ballerinas and a trench coat and I smell, well NOT like that mom should or is expected to.

That seems to induce an element of surprise or even confusion in some that I rather enjoy.

Image source: beautyspion.de, vintageadbrowser.com, some rights reserved, thank you!
Posted in Amber, Annick Goutal, Fragrance Reviews, Oriental | Tagged , , , , , | 45 Comments

“For Them” By Technique Indiscrete – A Fragrant Effort To Help Japan

Posted on March 17, 2011 by Olfactoria

Libertin Louison, the Belgian-born perfumer of Paris-based niche brand Technique Indiscrete has created a lavender cologne the profits of which go to 100% to the victims of the great tragedy that Japan is suffering right now.

Cologne “For Them” by Libertin Louison from “Technique Indiscrete”. A Cologne made to help Japanese people in times of crisis, a cologne made for the town of Minami Sanriku which disappeared after the Tsumani. All profits will be donated.

-from http://www.techniqueindiscrete.com/

It is 35€ for 50ml (plus shipping), there is an edition of 1000 bottles. Please think about supporting this commendable effort to help alleviate the effects of this recent tragedy a little bit.

Thank you!

Posted in Ramblings, Shopping, Technique Indiscrete | Tagged , , , , , | 13 Comments

A Thankfully Short Review And A Giveaway: Marc Jacobs Daisy Eau So Fresh

Posted on March 17, 2011 by Olfactoria

Oh no – fresh! was my immediate response to learning about this fragrance.

But in the interest of science and for the ultimate cuteness of the bottle, AND the general ubiquitousness of samples that get pushed at me from all sides, I took a sniff.

Oh my!

The top notes smell EXACTLY like Blendi toothpaste, a vile pink children’s toothpaste I had as a child. They do not just remind me, they are exactly replicated in the top of Daisy Eau so fresh, I am telling you!

After a while it gets a little better, the Blendi note dissipates to leave a wan, vague, sweetish little floral that is neither here nor there.

I, personally, will leave it there.

The drydown is – how shall I put it? – also there, it exists.  A little clean musk, there is not much more to say.

Blendi and clean, soapy, inconsequential white musk.

Notes proclaim to be: grapefruit, green notes, raspberry, pear,  jasmine, rose, violet, litchi, apple blossom, musk, virginia cedar and plum.

We so needed that. There is a definite market gap that needed to be filled.

We can rest assured now, Marc Jacobs has us covered.

Over and out.

GIVEAWAY: If you are still interested drop me a line, I have two untouched carded samples to give away! I will pick two “lucky” winners with the help of random.org on Monday morning, 8 am GMT. Good luck! 🙂

Image source:  preisvergleich.org, some rights reserved, thank you!
Posted in Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Fruity, Marc Jacobs | Tagged , , , , , , | 28 Comments

The Unbearable Lightness Of Being – Review: Hermes Un Jardin Sur Le Nil

Posted on March 16, 2011 by Olfactoria

Most of you hard and heavy Perfumistas are probably familiar with the story of the inception of Un Jardin sur le Nil.

Chandler Burr wrote about it in his book “The Perfect Scent” that came out in 2007. No doubt it had some influence on how this perfume sold, and – that is for sure – it had a big influence on me.

My obsession with perfume was kick-started when I read this book and of course, Un Jardin sur le Nil was one of my very first perfume purchases in the new era of Perfumista-dom, as opposed to the previous dark times of unenlightenment.

Jean-Claude Ellena, the perfumer who created Un Jardin sur le Nil for Hermes, turned into my favorite nose quickly and my mission was before me, clearly visible for the first time – sample everything Ellena ever did.

I am still on that mission, although as you know there are many things that sidetracked me and my tastes have broadened considerably. This Ellena fan wears an Amouage perfume today, of all things!

But as I thought about my beginnings as a scent-fiend, I realized Un Jardin sur le Nil played an important part, so it is high time I reviewed it.

The Jardins series comprises three perfume so far, Un Jardin en Mediterranée, Un Jardin sur le Nil was the second in the line and Un Jardin aprés la Mousson the third. A fourth one is to be released in spring of 2011, Un Jardin sur le Toit (A garden on the roof), I am looking forward to this release.

Notes include green mango, lotus flower, aromatic rushes, incense, sycamore wood. It was created in 2005.

Upon application Un Jardin sur le Nil wakes me up with a most effervescent green grapefruit note, fresh, bracing and non-sweet citrus, perfect. Then it calms down towards the subtler scent of green mangoes, as yet unripe, still hanging in the tree. There is a soft, ever so slight sweetness, underscored by the lotus flower, but it never gets too fruity, which would be a turn-off for me. The mango is surrounded by green and dry woody notes that stealthily take over during the perfume’s development.

It is one of those amazingly constructed Ellena perfumes that is as transparent and translucent and light-flooded as can be, yet still proves to be a lot more tenacious that one would think given its incredible lightness of being.

The drydown is dusty green, wood tinged with incense, a very unusual and memorable base, again astounding for something so weightless.

I could marvel for days about the high art if Jean-Claude Ellena’s style of paring down a perfume to the minimum without ever going to far, there is everything it needs, nothing is missing and yet nothing is too much either. But you heard me rave about this several times already, so I will just leave it at that:

The lightness of being this perfume exudes is almost unbearable in its delicacy and refined beauty. It is easy to underestimate and file it under cologne-style summer scent. But that would not do this perfume justice, although it is highly wearable, highly comfortable, perfectly gender-neutral and simply pretty, it is also a perfume that seems like lit from within.

I love to bask in its milky, opalescent light.

Image source: cafleurebon.com, Leaves courtesy of  Photos8.com, some rights reserved, thank you!
Posted in Fragrance Reviews, Green, Hermès | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 37 Comments

Insane Vanilla – Review: Atelier Cologne Vanille Insensée

Posted on March 15, 2011 by Olfactoria

Vanille Insensée is the sixth fragrance by my new favorite line Atelier Cologne. It was released for spring, which upon first look seems like an odd decision.

Most vanilla scents are geared towards the cooler seasons since it lies in the nature of vanilla to be sweet and warm. Well, most of the time at least…

First a little about the name. Vanille Insensée or Insane Vanilla is thoroughly fitting in the sense that this is no regular, run of the mill vanilla as you know it. Many believe and read (me included) that it is called Vanille Incensée, the second word having to do with incense, but that is not the case.

Vanille Insensée was created by Ralf Schwieger (like Orange Sanguine) in 2010, it is a cologne absolue of 15% concentration, notes include lime, cedrat, coriander, jasmine, oak moss, vetiver, vanilla, oak and amber.

After a fleeting second of citrus notes, Vanille Insensée lies before me from top to bottom as one. But not as an impenetrable block of a fragrance but like a transparent sphere, complete but everything inside is clearly visible and discernible. It is an incredible sensation.

I smell the coriander, the jasmine, although very subdued, the vanilla – prominent, but soft – and the woody and ambery notes of the base. It is all there from the start, its finely crafted layers visible and tangible, yet light and transparent and intriguingly beautiful.

I do not like sweet and foody vanilla on me, Comptoir Pacifique-esque vanilla renditions make me run as far as I can, but I enjoy darker, boozier vanillas as in Spiritueuse Double Vanille or Vanille Absolument, although only in cold weather. It brings to mind other “strange” vanilla perfumes like Diptyque Eau Duelle or Annick Goutal Vanille Exquise.

But Vanille Insensée is neither.

It smells very true to what you get when you open a fresh vanilla pod and scrape it out. It is not vanilla essence or flavor, it is very close to the real, fresh thing with its dark and smoky, yet light facet.

To have released Vanille Insensée in spring is actually a brilliant idea, because look out of the window: Spring is not warm and sunny, at best it is changeable, unreliable and takes you from rain to bright sunshine in the course of an afternoon. For such conditions Vanille Insensée is perfect.

Like all the Cologne Absolues from Atelier Cologne, tenacity is excellent, and it has quite a sillage without being over-boarding. I received unusually many compliments when wearing it (normally people do not register my perfumes or they choose not to comment, I don’t know, the only other perfume, to ever get me that many compliments was Chanel Coco Mademoiselle, although I am not sure now that this a compliment for the Atelier scent. ;))

I highly recommend Vanille Insensée, as well as the other perfumes in this line, because it is so well made – that image of the transparent sphere is very powerful, I see it every time I apply the fragrance – and will be appealing for vanilla lovers and skeptics alike, I believe.

Reviews of Orange Sanguine, Bois Blonds and Trefle Pur, Oolang Infini, Grand Neroli are here.

Image source: ateliercologne.com,blog.timesunion.com, some rights reserved, thank you!
Posted in Atelier Cologne, Fragrance Reviews, Oriental, Woods | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 29 Comments