British brand 4160 Tuesdays has quite a number of fragrances that are brim full of wit. In a world where perfumers can be painfully pretentious or rudely arrogant, the approach taken by indie perfumer Sarah McCartney is refreshing.
A perfume called Tart’s Knicker Drawer can’t fail to amuse and happily the scent itself is just as playful. It smells exactly the way I thought (and hoped) it would.
I think Sarah McCartney is particularly talented at creating vintage inspired scents, such as Doe in the Snow which is a 70s-style fruity chypre. Tart’s Knicker Drawer also has a definite retro feel. It’s a powdery cloud of gorgeousness with a silky, ambery base reminiscent of the full-bodied perfumes of the past.
Released in 2014, Tart’s Knicker Drawer actually came into being by pure chance. After a day of filtering six perfumes at once, Sarah remarked on Twitter that she smelt like “a tart’s boudoir”.
The positive reaction encouraged her to experiment further and refine the combination. The result is an incredibly smooth, complex yet easy to wear fragrance.
Tart’s Knicker Drawer contains the following notes:
Top notes: Bergamot, orange, grapefruit and pink peppercorn
Heart notes: Raspberry, rose, jasmine, sandalwood, cedarwood, violet, tuberose and guiacwood
Base notes: Amber, musk, vanilla, benzoin and tobacco
I would recommend not dwelling on the notes too much because it’s an exceptionally well blended, abstract perfume. But to give you an idea, I’d say it’s a raspberry swirl over rose/violet powder with a satin ribbon of jasmine – all on a plump pillow of amber and vanilla.
The fact that it is sweet but not syrupy, makes it womanly rather than teenage, which I love.
The woman we’re talking about here is feminine and voluptuous. She is more cheeky than outright tarty; there’s no filth hidden behind the scenes. She enjoys getting ready for a night out as much as the evening’s entertainment itself. She loves the ritual of applying full make-up, scenting her skin and dressing-up in sophisticated yet figure-hugging clothing.
Tart’s Knicker Drawer is all about the boudoir mist of old-style lipstick, face powder and perfume. This concoction ends up clinging to silk stockings and satin undergarments.
Its coquettish, vintage style is very fitting for a Varga Girl.
Painted by the most famous pin-up artist of all, Alberto Vargas, the 1940s Varga Girl portraits are glamorous, flirtatious and fun, just like Sarah’s scent.
During World War II, many U.S. servicemen chose to adorn their aircraft, ships and even uniform jackets with Varga Girl images copied from the pages of magazines and calendars.
I find Tart’s Knicker Drawer in Eau de Parfum strength lasts remarkably well with lovely soft focus sillage.
I’d very much like to experience the Extrait, not least because Sarah says “It lingers, like a fond memory of naughty things which happened in secret.”
Have you tried Tart’s Knicker Drawer? Do you like any boudoir scents? Please let me know in the comments.