By Tara
Cédrat Enivrant (“intoxicating Citron”) Cologne Absolue is the most recent release from Atelier Cologne and has a 15% concentration. It contains notes of cédrat, lime, bergamot, mint, basil, juniper berry, tonka bean, vetiver and elemi.
As you may know, a cedrat (or citron in English) is a citrus fruit which is related to both the lemon and the lime. That’s pretty much what Cédrat Enivrant smells like to start with; a big hit of lemon zest with a shot of green lime. As a result it’s very bright and zingy.
Unlike a few of Atelier’s recent fragrances – take Gold Leather for example – this really does feel like cologne. It would give you a brisk slap around the face to wake you up in the morning or thoroughly cool you down during a hot and sticky day.
It doesn’t smell synthetic or cheap and will appeal to those who like a dominant lemon note. Unfortunately, the aroma of lemon doesn’t have a positive association for me because it brings to mind functional fragrances. It reminds me of a product used to clean or scent the kitchen, leaving it smelling nice and fresh.
The invigorating lemon with a twist of lime lasts a good couple of hours before it gradually begins to shrink in intensity and the mint, basil and juniper berry add some aromatic interest.
Cédrat Enivrant now begins to resemble its inspiration; the French 75 cocktail made from gin, Champagne, lemon juice and sugar. Created in 1915, the drink was said to have such a kick that it felt like being shelled with the powerful French 75mm field gun or “75 Cocktail”.
It has to be said that this bracing fragrance certainly lives up to its backstory.
While I find this cocktail stage more appealing, it’s still just that bit too lemony and herbal for me to find it mouth wateringly drinkable, the way some thirst quenching scents can be.
I had expected the masculine, bone-dry theme to continue with a vetiver base but it actually turns sweeter, probably thanks to a good dose of tonka bean.
Cédrat Enivrant feels classic and well done but ultimately I find it uninspiring. I do wonder if there are cheaper alternatives out there but I guess that’s where Atelier Cologne’s unique selling point comes into play. How many citrus colognes are going to last several hours?
Well, to join Olfactoria in evangelising Hermès for a moment, their colognes (take my current favourite Eau de Mandarine Ambrée for example) have surprisingly good lasting-power, captivating compositions and a more accessible price-point.
Some colognes in Atelier Cologne’s line-up such as the refreshing tea of Oolang Infini or the masculine vanilla of Vanille Insensée really do bring something new to the genre. However, I can’t help feeling that Cédrat Enivrant is lacking an original angle to elevate it to something more befitting a niche house and justify the significant retail price.
What do you think of Atelier Cologne? Do you have a favourite fragrance from the brand?
Olfactoria's Travels 
Hi Tara. I really do like the idea of cologne in a higher concentration. Vanilla Insensee is one of my spring favorites. Unfortunately I have not had the opportunity to smell many of the newer releases. Cedrat Enivrant sounds like it could work in the summer.
Hi Sandra,
Yes, I think it would work well on a hot summer’s day. I have a sample of Mistral Patchouli but haven’t tried it yet. So far I prefer the earlier releases but I do like the concept too and I think it’s working well for them.
Unfortunately, nothing I’ve tried by Atelier Cologne worked for me. I guess they are just not the brand to my taste.
Hi Ines
You may not have had a chance to test the smidgen of Gold Leather I sent but that’s the only one that springs to mind that might appeal you.
Tara, I did test it and it seemed promising in the beginning, but no, still not me. Vetiver Spice on the other hand… 😉
Ah too bad. It would have been a lot cheaper!
Hey there Tara,
For no reason whatsoever I don’t love the Atelier Cologne idea. Something in their presentation irks me and I know it’s ridiculous and unfounded.
You make me want to give myself a spritz though, just to be sure. Even though you aren’t raving about it, you still manage to make it sound interesting and wearable.
Portia xx
Hey Portia
I know what you mean. Maybe it’s because of who they’re aiming their line at, but it’s a pretty dry aesthetic. The fragrances are very wearable though.
Hi Tara, I had exactly the same experience as you with Cédrat Enivrant – the lemon / lime / bergamot in the first hit is all peel, which unfortunately reminds me of a (nice) bathroom spray I used to use for years… So that association is difficult to get past. Quite difficult in fact… But it does settle down with the juniper & elemi resin. This was a 30ml blind buy, I am regretting not purchasing Trefle Pur instead, but I haven’t totally given up on it. Will give it a run through in cooler months & see what the story is. I am pretty partial to gin, after all…
Tina G
Hi Tina
I agree, I think it’s really hard to get over a functional fragrance association, even it’s well done.
Blind buys are notoriously dodgy but tempting none the less. At least it was only the 30ml bottle. I hope you have better luck when you give it a re-try in different weather.
Heh – My one and only blind buy, and for that lesson I think I did escape on the lucky side….
Thanks,
Tina
That’s good. I made a blind buy mistake only this year…
Hi Tara,
I really like the line. My favorite is probably Ooland Infini, but a squirt of Orange Sanguine in summer is hard to beat, Trefle Pur is unique and one of the prettiest greens out there.
So while I was obviously very into the initial releases, the later ones did not move me as much.
As for Cedrat, I think I would suffer the same unshakeable lemon association as you do, but I will try and see.
On the same page as ever, B.
Oolang Infini is my fave too.
I love the line, including the presentation (for a change!). My favourites are mistral patchouli, vanilla insensee and trefle pur. However I gave Cedrat a try the other day and while it was very refreshing, i don’t think its made it to my list of must haves.
Hi Alice,
Cedrat Enivrant could be nice and refreshing for a lot of people I think. I didn’t feel moved by it either though.
I like Trefle Pur a lot and am interested to try Mistral Patchouli.
Here, here, the big cologne fan arrived. Reading your review alone should be enough for me to buy a FB – but somehow the juice itself couldn’t convince me. I get wood, somehow, and I found it disturbing – but honestly, I’ll have to revisit this fragrance on a bright, warm day. BTW, I love AC’s Orange Sanguine and Trefle Pur !
Ha! This did seem to be right up your street but what fascinating skin you have. Woody and disturbing? I didn’t see that coming!
Orange Sanguine felt a little too much like squirting myself with fresh orange juice but it’s a very happy fragrance.
I really think this fragrance needs a happy sunny day – I tried it on a dark & rainy one, with just a spritz in a shop. It will be revisited, sure. But then again, I noticed that every time there is “cedrat” on the ingredients list I get a bit of a wood, so it’s a rather strange skin…
Very special skin!
I’m sure you’re right to make a final decision once you’ve tried it in warm weather.
Mistral patchouli, rose anonyme and oolang infini are my favourites. I dont like the Cedrat, it smells cheap on me!
Thanks very much for sharing your favourites.
Too bad this latest release didn’t work you for.
Vanille Insensee is the only Atelier I have tried which has delivers on the longevity promise. It lasts all day on me, but after a lovely start, it goes rather flat. I’m a bit bored by it by the end of the day. I’ve given up on the brand, essentially. I liked the concept though. Funnily enough my 11 yo daughter loves sharp citrus smells and I think she would love Atelier’s Cedrat. A bit expensive though. I’ll start her on 4711!
Yes, don’t get her hooked on the expensive stuff at that age!
How nice that she likes sharp citrus scents. It shows that not all young girls like the syrupy strawberry perfumes that are aimed at them.
I love the Atelier Cologne line, with my favorite being Sous le toit de Paris, followed by Silver Iris. I like the utilitarian simplicity of its packaging and for me, the price is reasonable and the availability of 30 mL bottles make it possible for me to eventually have the entire collection without breaking the bank.
The ultilitarian look definitely appeals to some and the 30ml bottles are great. Shame they’re hard to get in that size in London now but very cool you can build up the whole collection that way.
Thanks for reviewing Cedrat Enivrant, I am glad that on my skin it’s not too lemony.
I really like the distinct aesthetics of AC with Orange Sanguine being my favorite. To me CE is Caipirinha in a bottle and from its atmosphere – I mean its warm character (like you said, tonka bean!) although being a sparkling Cologne – it’s quite similar to Orange Sanguine.
Hi Anka
I would have much preferred a Caipirinha perfume to cleaning fluid/air freshner. Never mind, at least it’s working well for some. I love the way it gets warmer in the base, it’s a nice surprise.
My favourite from the line is certainly Orange Sanguine, but Cedrat Enivrant made it already to a second place. I think, Ralf Schwieger has a magic hand for almost photo realistic and long lasting citrus scents. Although CE wasn’t love at first sniff, I had to get used to the very metallic and bitter opening. But then it slightly warms and rounds up and stays like this for hours. As you can tell, I am a fan! Cheers – Safran
Hi Safran
Cedrat Enivrant is a very realistic citrus and definitely gets better as it goes along, I agree. It must have grown on you quickly to take second place. Orange Sanguine seems like a favourite for a lot of people going on today’s comments.
Great review as always, Tara. We definitely differ in our opinion with this one, but then again I’m a sucker for a long-lasting lime note 😀
Thanks, Thomas!
I wish I got as much lime as you. I love lime. It was pretty much all lemon, all the time, on me. Oh well.
And lemons are definitely not as nice as limes!
Not even close!
I love this line, I guess because I like many cologne-like scents (Ô de Lancome comes to mind) and citrus in general. My little 30 ml bottle of Orange Sanguine is nearly empty, and I quite liked Trefle Pur when I tried it. At the moment I have sammples of Mistral Patchouli, Silver Iris and Sous le toit de Paris. Of these I had hoped Silver Iris would be a favourite, but there’s again too much a feeling of carrots at the start. Sous le toit de Paris has made it on to my wish list, so I hope that one will not be discontinued any time soon. I do not find the price point of this line too high, but then we are of course used to a high price level on anything having to do with perfume or cosmetics in Norway.The flat design of the small bottles make them perfect for travel.
Yes, I have a feeling those small bottles are made for businessmen to slip in their briefcases 🙂
I had no idea perfume and cosmetics were so high priced in Norway. How annoying.
Thanks for sharing your favourites by Atelier Cologne. I am going to have to look into Sois Le Toit de Paris.
Yet another vote for Orange Sanguine!
I like the line (especially on my vSO) and I do not have bad associations with cleaning products (since I’m trying very hard to use unscented products) but CE reminds me of Orange Sanguine too much to be interested in it as well. Not bad – just not unique enough.
Yes, it’s not a bad fragrance at all but I don’t find it unique enough either. I think the line really has men in mind and I bet they do smell great on your v.SO.
I’m sure it’s too late for me to rid myself ot the negative association with cleaning products but maybe I should think about using non-scented ones anyway.
I had exactly the same reaction to this one – indeed I was with you when I first tried it! – a bit too much of a slap round the gills, ie too brisk and bracing and overly reminiscent of functional lemon products. My favourites from the line are Oolong Infini, Bois Blonds, Trefle Pur and Orange Sanguine – if I can have that many favourites. 😉
Ooh, and Silver Iris – the latest one I am ‘rooting’ for!