The most expensive sub-category in the never-cheap Xerjoff Kingdom is the catchingly named XJ17/17 line. (The name refers to a filing shelf, apparently.) 100ml EdP in the stone label bottle (see below) starts at 500€ depending on the perfume, but you can spend a lot more when choosing a Murano glass or quartz bottle (up to 12 000€).
Let’s take a look at four of the line today. There are two more, Richwood and Damarose, which I hope to sample soon.
Elle includes notes of hesperidic and fruity accord, galbanum, orange blossom, iris, leather accord, patchouli, amber, musk and Tonkiphora balm.
Elle is a very sweet fruity floral-gourmand. No doubt this is not your fun fair candy floss, but a Ladurée raspberry macaron is just as fattening and bad for your teeth. Like said macaron, it is a great indulgence and I love to eat one or two, make me eat a dozen and I’ll stay away from them for life. Elle is lovely to wear for twenty minutes, then it is enough. I love to indulge now and again, but becoming a macaron myself is taking it too far.
Homme includes notes of Mediterranean citrus, spices, leather, clove, lavender, Lysilang, woods and vetiver.
Homme leaves no questions open as to what gender this is geared towards. Name and scent spell MAN, REAL MAN! This is the strongest leather scent I have ever encountered (yes, it even leaves Mona di Orio’s Cuir in the dust). I’m not man enough for Homme, that is for sure. Leather dominates throughout, accented by herbal notes and a soft floral garland that doesn’t gather enough speed though to compete with the overwhelming presence of leather. Did I mention this was a leather scent? A strong one?
XXY includes notes of bergamot, peach, jasmine, ylang ylang, black pepper and patchouli.
XXY is very muted, restrained, elegant and not at all uninteresting. A bracing citrus opening, a peachy-floral heart laced with a generous amount of black pepper, resting on soft patchouli. It is nice to wear and lasts a long time, it smells expensive and it should too. But what it is not, is unusual enough to warrant the investment.
Irisss includes notes of iris butter, carrot seed, rose absolute, ylang-ylang, rare woods, incense and musk.
Irisss has a reputation. It is rumored to be the best iris perfume around. Irisss opens very carroty, then the iris, unmistakably prominent, thick, earthy and rich leads the chorus of florals bedded on a sheer base of incense and woody notes. It is good, no doubt here, it smells like a lot of iris concrete is in there. But it does not displace the gold standard of iris perfumes for me – Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist is still on top, and in comparison it is practically a bargain!
What is your favorite perfume from the house of Xerjoff? What do you think of the line?