Of all the Mona di Orio perfumes in the Les Nombres d’Or line, Cuir is probably the most difficult one to wear, even to come to terms with.
Not one to be put off by an initial olfactory shock, I persisted with Cuir and while it never will be a put on and go kind of perfume (I highly doubt it was designed as such), I am glad I didn’t dismiss it.
Cuir was created by Mona di Orio and includes notes of cardamom, absinth, leather, cade, opoponax and castoreum.
Cuir provides a shock to the system, opening with smoke and the smell of roasting meat. Nick said on Twitter, it smelled of chorizo and I agree, but thankfully that carnal – in the most literal sense – impression is fleeting. (The Candy Perfume Boy gets a lot of meat as well, here is his take on Cuir.) The smoke is here to stay, but it is accompanied by a strong and powerful leather, on the dry side and very rough and masculine. Spices peek through the smokescreen now and again, and become stronger as time passes. A sharp pine-y whiff (cade) and a softer cloud of cardamom make the leather interesting and less stark.
In the drydown, Cuir becomes softer, although it never completely loses its edge, but it no longer screams at your enemies to “Get down, now!” Jack Bauer style.
I little bit is enough, the EdT concentration makes you wonder what other people put in their juices, because this is enormously powerful, with great projection and longevity.
Often, Cuir is too much for me, and I have no desire to emulate Jack Bauer, but sometimes it has the effect of turning me into a leather outfit wearing, martial-arts-savvy Trinity from Matrix. I’m on a mission then, I’m invincible and I’m not to be taken lightly.
Watch out, World, Cuir is a powerful weapon, and I’m not afraid to use it.