Cocktail Hour In Two Dimensions – Review: Olfactive Studio Still Life

Posted on September 14, 2011 by Olfactoria

Still Life is the brightest and happiest of the three Olfactive Studio perfumes. A woody citrus fragrance, Still Life is – contrary to its name – very effervescent and sparkling, very much alive, very dynamic and full of energy and movement.

“A breeze could throw them off course yet these 2d spheres – faceted and seemingly frozen – continue spinning like lyrical and living sculptures.

These images froze life to better prolong it. To immortalize nature is quite different from what the French call without any apparent reason nature morte, or literally «dead nature.»

 Here, they appear in time suspended, a moment frozen for all eternity. More appropriate than the French, the English still life does more justice than the French word to the life still resonating within.”

-about the photograph Still Life

Created by perfumer Dora Arnaud, Still Life includes notes of yuzu, elemi, pink pepper, black pepper, Sichuan pepper, star anise, Galbanum, Dark Rum, Cedarwood and Ambrox.

Still Life opens on a sparkling note of yuzu, with its characteristic bitter brightness, along with peppery spices. Soon a rum note in heart makes the perfume seem grown up and give the impression of a cocktail. A Mojito maybe – citrus, green leaves (that is the galbanum waving softly from the sidelines), rum, ice cubes clinking, beads of moisture slowly running down the sides of the glass… Still Life in its early stages is positively giddy, you almost hear it giggling, having a blast at that party.

Like a cocktail on a hot night, the perfume becomes slowly warmer, the ice is melting and different aspects of the cocktail come to the fore. The yuzu recedes, although never quite leaving and thus keeping the freshness to the very last moment, and warmer, woody notes emerge. I make out cedar and a lot, a whole lot of ambrox.

Still Life leans a bit masculine, it is angular and straightforward way, although it wears certainly great on both men and women.

The photograph that inspired Still Life depicts a 3D object, a sphere, on a 2D object, a postcard. This peculiar flatness is present for me in the drydown. Ambrox has little depth, it is more broad and wide than deep, it is more piece of paper than sphere.

I love my perfumes more three dimensional, but I am impressed with the artistic translation of the photographic template into an olfactory experience.

Still Life by Frederic Lebain

Still Life is only superficially a happy, go lucky scent. That cocktail party ends in intense, but intimate discussions by the fireplace. Low but insistent voices, carrying a range of emotions, talking deep into the night.

Still Life lives from its contrasting nature. Dynamic, and at the same time suspended in time, sparkling and vital, and at the same time flat and still.

It is true to its name after all, since both aspects are in there: still life, a contradiction in itself.

Image source: press kit http://www.olfactivestudio.com

Posted in Citrus, Fragrance Reviews, Olfactive Studio, Woods | Tagged , , , , | 16 Comments

Reflections – Review: Olfactive Studio Autoportait

Posted on September 13, 2011 by Olfactoria

Over the next three days I am going to review the three new perfumes, Olfactive Studio is launching this week in Paris. I will start with my favorite, Autoportrait.

It is probably saying something about my narcissistic tendencies that I am drawn to a perfume called Autoportrait, the least of which is that my diagnosis is right. 😉 But aside from the personality – appropriate name,  Autoportrait triggers many of my “want!” buttons. Let’s see what lies beneath that name…

“A self-portrait may be the answer to this equation in one unknown: the self.
Eternally superficial, beauty gives us access to the profound, hidden meaning of nature. Seeing one’s reflection is to experience inner harmony; one that ignites an aesthetic emotion that, through the gaze, is able to dissolve all inner conflicts.
It is not forbidden to be fascinated, swept away, spellbound by one’s own image. Aesthetic judgment is reflective judgment. What fascinates us really? Beauty itself or that which it conceals?

Gaze into your image to have a clear mind and heart.  Like an intimate and visual diary, the self-portrait reveals the truth or fiction of your own face at any given time.
The self-portrait is, beyond all doubt, conductive to contemplation.
Delve into the depths of the self by perusing the surface.

 The beautiful narcissus is the eternal witness. Seeing his face upon the waters, he fell in love.”

-from the press map

Created by perfumer Natalie Lorson of Firmenich,  Autoportrait includes notes of bergamot, elemi, benzoin Siam, incense, musks, oakmoss, cedar and vetiver.

Autoportrait is a soft and quiet scent, it stays close, but has enough sillage to be felt during the day. A completely flower-free perfume, Autoportrait lives through the smoky and murky depths of benzoin and incense. Autoportrait is all about the base.

After a quick breeze of bergamot, the resins settle in and get comfortable on my skin, warming up slowly, gaining depth and sweetness over time. Smoky tendrils curl over a wooden base that is comfortably plush and rich, with oakmoss and vetiver lending a green tinge.

I am reminded of Xerjoff Casamorati Bouquet Idèale, only Autoportrait is rounder, fuller without being heavier, it seems more complete whereas Bouquet Idèale always leaves me with the feeling of being a bit hollow, empty.

Autoportait is a very calming, contemplative and meditative perfume. It exudes peace and encourages to turn your gaze inwards.

Autoportrait by Luc Lapotre

I am moved by the photograph inspiring Autoportrait. The scale of man and sky (which is made even vaster through the ingenious reflection of water) puts things in perspective.

Instead of focusing on my reflection, instead of putting up myself as the focal point of scrutiny, the horizon is opened up and puts me in a context that is closer to reality than my body, my face, my eyes. I still see myself, but I see so much more as well. I can still focus on myself, but I don’t have to.

A relief, as every card-carrying narcissist will surely be glad to confirm.

Image source: press kit http://www.olfactivestudio.com
Posted in Fragrance Reviews, Incense, Olfactive Studio | Tagged , , , , | 24 Comments

There’s A New Brand In Town – Introduction To Olfactive Studio

Posted on September 12, 2011 by Olfactoria

Frenchwoman Celine Verleure, formerly of Kenzo, Osmoz.com and L’Orèal, is a true perfume lover. She wanted to realize her dream and create her own perfume label.

Said label existed long before any perfume did, since Celine decided to go down a new and interesting road – to let people who love perfume, be a part of it’s creation. So Celine opened a Facebook page (or two, one in French, one in English) called “The Blog For The Fragrance That Doesn’t Exist (yet)!”, inviting thousands of interested internet users to witness and take part in every step of the creation of a new brand.

“Take part in the creation of an intuitive, creative, artistic, unique niche brand of perfumes, with a powerful personality, and the polar opposite of perfumes brands launched with run-of-the-mill marketing campaigns. You can share your ideas and opinions, comment on proposals and artistic choices, and interact with the art director via the Facebook fan page.”

Over months, followers could see the development of the idea, the collaboration with the artists inspiring the perfumes to be, the design of bottles and overall visual impact of the line and even taking part in choosing the fragrance’s names.

I followed Celine’s project for some time now and she was so gracious as to offer me the chance to try her perfumes before the launch, which will take place on September 15 in Europe and the Middle East. The perfumes will be available from the company website from September 15, they ship to the US and Europe for now. The perfumes will also be available in niche boutiques throughout Europe, from the end of September. The US launch is planned for the beginning of 2012.

There are three perfumes is the line, called Autoportrait, Still Life and Chambre Noire. From those names it becomes clear how the perfumes came to be. A collaboration of three photographers and three perfumers, the fragrances are inspired by photography. Three works of art, three perfumes.

“Olfactive Studio is an encounter between contemporary artistic photography and perfumery; between the eye and the nose.”

The perfumers let themselves be inspired by the visual input of the photographer’s works, with the goal to create an olfactory work of art. Marketing strategies and focus groups had no place in this endeavor. All three perfumes are designed for men and women, as Celine says:

“The perfumes are angels; they have no gender, but they have a soul.”

While I was very attracted to the visual realization of Celine’s ideas, I didn’t know what to expect from the perfumes. I have spent a lot of time with those three, since I received generous decants to really allow me to get to know the perfumes intimately.

I will review each of the perfumes over the next three days in depth, since they deserve a close look, not only a quick mini-review. I hope to see you tomorrow!

Images from press kit http://www.olfactivestudio.com

Posted in Citrus, Fragrance Reviews, Fruity, Incense, Leather, Musk, Olfactive Studio, Oriental, Spicy, Woods | Tagged , , , , , , , | 33 Comments

Monday Question – What Draws You To A New Brand?

Posted on September 12, 2011 by Olfactoria

What interests you in a new brand?

What characteristics must a new line have that moves you to take a closer look (or sniff)?

How important are visuals to you?

What is the most important trait a new label must have to entice you? Great perfumer? Huge campaign? Great variety? The novelty?

My Answer:

I am mostly drawn in by the visual concept at first. If I like what I see, I look more closely. If a line is done up all in purple frills, I detect a slight incompatibility in taste and am not inclined to investigate further. The name of  a perfumer I know and like is also helpful. I am more likely to try a new Duchaufour or Ellena, even if I am not immediately drawn in by the visuals.

Once I smell the perfumes, the importance of all the outer trimmings recede, and if I don’t like what I smell, I lose interest, no matter how pretty, elegant or super-designed the whole thing might be.

This week here on Olfactoria’s Travels, is dedicated to a new line. The Introduction follows this afternoon, the reviews of the three new perfumes of this brand are up in the coming days. I am very exited with this new launch, and yes, initially it was the visuals that woke my interest, but thankfully the perfumes are in line with what is visible to the eye.

So stay tuned!

Image source: gomonews.de
Posted in Monday Question | Tagged , , , | 30 Comments

Last Week In Perfume Land – Weekend Link Love

Posted on September 11, 2011 by Olfactoria

Ten years ago today, I was on vacation in Tuscany. Sitting on the square in front of the dome in Siena, I saw the huge headline of the German Bild-Zeitung in the hands of a fellow tourist at the next table: “Great God, help us all!”

I know my first thought was, “What now?”, since Bild-Zeitung is not really known for serious news and employ rather sensationalist tactics in their reporting.

But when I gathered what had happened a few hours ago in New York, my favorite city in the world, I could not help but cry for hours. We sat in front of the Italian TV and stared, speechless, at the countless repetitions of the unbelieveable happenings on that day. I also had the unfortunate duty of informing American fellow guests at our villa, who were in the middle of celebrating a birthday and hadn’t heard the news yet. Three of their party were from New York.

I don’t want to talk about what happened since or how the US reacted to those attacks, there are many people who know much more and can express their opinions a lot better than I can.

But what I want to do, is take a moment to remember how many people in the whole world were affected by that event, how many have suffered, how many suffer still.

By no means was this the greatest tragedy in humanity when we only look at facts and numbers, not even in the last few years, but still it was an attack that gripped the world in a special way. The unassailable USA have been hit. That did more damage to our collective feeling of safety than anything else ever could.

Let’s not forget that nothing can be taken for granted and nothing is set in stone.

Let us live life as good as we can, enjoy what we have and above all, let us try to be kind. When being kind to others is a priority, fear and hate have a hard time setting roots.

Last week in Perfumeland the following posts helped to brighten my day:

Tarleiso of Scentless Sensibilities posted a two-part review of Maria McElroy’s Aroma M line. Highly recommended! (Both the perfumes and Tarleisio’s reviews!)

Ines’s partner in crime, Asali on All I Am – A Redhead reviews De Profundis, the latest Serge Lutens creation.

On that same theme, Octavian Coifan of 1000Fragrances shocked me with an obituary for Serge Lutens, hop on over and see what you make of this.

Annemarie of Beauty On The Outside shares her thoughts on color theory.

Tommy, The Candy Perfume Boy reviews his first Kilian, Sweet Redemption and so did I, here is my take.

Carrie of Eyeliner on a Cat takes a look at a lovely rose…

Suzanne loves milk and The English Patient, I’m with her on both counts.

Lavanya of Pieces of Paper, Squiggly Lines smells her way into Mandy Aftel’s wonderful universe, check out her review of Fig.

It was a good week on Olfactoria’s Travels, people seemed to like my Perfume As Medicine post and the new Mona di Orio Oud is surely the most inspiring and outstanding perfume I have tried this year.

How was your week? What will you do this weekend? What did yo do ten years ago?

Image source: Thomas E. Franklin © AP
Posted in Weekend Link Love | Tagged , , | 26 Comments

Happy Birthday, Dawn! – DSH Mini-Reviews

Posted on September 10, 2011 by Olfactoria

Tomorrow is Dawn Spencer Hurwitz’s birthday, the incredibly talented perfumer from Boulder, Colorado, is one of the most prolific perfumers today. In addition she is an incredibly nice and generous person and I feel honored to know her.

I like many of her creations, my favorites are Mata Hari and the six perfumes that comprise the Italian Splendor Collection (Part 2, Part 3)

Let me celebrate he birthday by showcasing a little selection of her work – three “soliflores”.

Happy Birthday, Dawn!

Un Soir d’Eté Provencal: Includes notes of Bergamot, Bitter Orange, French Lavender, Lemon, Lime Peel, Rosewood, Centifolia Rose Absolute, Egyptian Rose Geranium, Grandiflorum Jasmine, Orris, spike (lavandin), Amber, Bay Laurel, Oppopanax, Patchouli, Peru Balsam, Tonka Bean and Vanilla Absolute.

Un Soir is a lavender perfume, my favorite among lavenders. I tend to find the note too harsh or masculine to wear, although I love it for scenting linens or rooms. Un Soir is a lavender I like to wear as a perfume, because the staring note, while still being prominent, is bedded so beautifully in a radiant bouquet of rose and jasmine, accented by sparkling citrus top notes and propped up on a solid and smooth base of amber, patchouli and balsamic notes, is perfectly showcased. Un Soir is fresh, uplifting and calming at the same time. The lavender is treated in such a way that I feel like walking through a lavender field in the Provence, as its name suggests, rather than feeling like a human sachet or a Laura Ashley curtain.

Eau de Fleurs d’Oranger de Roi Louis XV:  Includes notes of bitter Orange, Lemon, Italian Neroli, Orange Flower Absolute from France, Orange Flower Water, Ambergris and Petitgrain.

It is not very hard, to get me to love an orange blossom perfume, since I am a fan of the note’s golden aura, bearing instant happiness, but always trailing a shadow as well. This 100% natural perfume concentrates on that dualistic aspect of orange flowers, and gives it a salty twist with ambergris. If it’s been good enough for the French court…

American Beauty:  Includes notes of bergamot, Cassis Bud, Palma Rosa, Rosewood, Bulgarian Rose Absolute, Bulgarian Rose Otto, Centifolia Rose Absolute, Egyptian Rose Geranium, Moroccan Rose Absolute, Orris, Ciste Absolute, East Indian Patchouli, Mysore Sandalwood and Peru Balsam.

A rose, is a rose, is a rose. American Beauty is a very fruity rose. Cassis on top, rose as rose can in the heart, patchouli -sandalwood as a base. No need to explain further…

Lautrec:  Notes include bergamot, Cognac, Davana, Passionfruit, Sweet Absinthe, Cassie Absolute, Moroccan Rose Absolute, Orange Flower Absolute from Spain, Orris, Sambac Jasmine, Ylang-Ylang, Australian Sandalwood, Benzoin, Caramel, Civet, Indian Patchouli, Labdanum, Moss and Tolu Balsam.

Lautrec is a gourmand with a fruity chypre twist. When I wear it, the soundtrack of Moulin Rouge starts up in my head and the multitude of color and sound, the Baz Luhrman movie unleashed upon us, is perfectly distilled in this tiny bottle. It is Montparnasse circa 1880, only not quite that crazy. 🙂 I love it!

I could go on and on, the gems in DSH’s portfolio are numerous.

What is your favorite DSH fragrance? Or which one would you love to try?

Please chime in with your DSH experiences, I’m sure Dawn will be happy about our little birthday present!

Image source: cafleurebon.com, metroflowerdelivery.com
Posted in Chypre, DSH, Floral, Fruity, Gourmand, Orange Blossom, Rose | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 41 Comments

Silver Haze – Review: Dior La Collection Privée Bois d’Argent

Posted on September 9, 2011 by Olfactoria

By Tara

I was sniffing my way around the new Dior perfume boutique in Selfridges when the Sales Assistant gave me something sprayed on a card, without telling me what it was. I was bowled over immediately and asked for a sample. When it turned out to be Bois d’Argent I wasn’t too surprised, as I had liked the sound of this perfume for a very long time, but had never actually tried it. I was largely interested because it was composed by the incredibly talented Annick Ménardo, who is responsible for such distinctive and unique fragrances as Bulgari Black, Lolita Lempicka and Dior’s own Hypnotic Poison.

Bois d’Argent is classified as a woody chypre and includes notes of incense, iris absolute, myrrh, honey, musk, woods and leather. I’ve seen it referred to as “hazy” and that’s a very good description. It is named “silver woods” after all, so we are not talking about your usual dark, dense woody perfume but something a lot more ethereal. I envision a glade of silver birches at night, shining in the moonlight.

The first thing that you notice when spraying Bois d’Argent is the incense, a subtle white frankincense that hovers lightly over a gorgeous honeyed vanilla, and this forms the main character of the perfume. The iris is there, but the musk and leather are so muted as to be unnoticeable.

Bois d’Argent has a soft, second-skin feeling about it and wears very close to the body. It is a joy to catch its aroma every now and then. Lasting power is very good and it gets somewhat woodier as time goes on.

Extra points go to Dior for the very pleasing hand-made, padded, cylindrical packaging.

Originally released in 2004 as one of a trio of men’s colognes, Bois d’Argent – along with Eau Noire – joined La Collection Couturier (now called La Collection Privée) in 2010 as an eau de parfum. It is certainly unisex, so this was a wise move by Dior. At the risk of stereotyping, I wouldn’t be surprised if it actually appeals to women a lot more than men because it does have a significant degree of sweetness.

Gustav Klimt Buchenhain

If, like me, you are a fan of modern chypres, do give Bois d’Argent a try if you get the chance. It’s a perfume that manages to be sensual, luxurious and easy to wear all at the same time – which is quite a wonderful thing.

Bois d’Argent is part of Dior’s La Collection Privée and is available in 125ml, 250ml and 450ml Eau de Parfum.

Image source: dior.com, wikipaintings.org
Posted in By Tara, Dior, Dior La Collection Privée, Fragrance Reviews, Incense, Iris, Woods | Tagged , , , , , , , | 61 Comments

Re-calibrating The Nose – Review: Parfums d’Orsay Etiquette Bleue

Posted on September 8, 2011 by Olfactoria

A true cologne in the classic style is a wonderful thing. It is timeless – traditional and utterly modern at the same time. It is genderless – nothing else works so perfectly without taking perceived boundaries between feminine and masculine into account. It is instantly familiar and comfortable.

I came upon a sample of Etiquette Bleue some time ago, but didn’t take it out until I got to know another scent of the line, L’Intrigante, that I liked a lot.

Allegedly created in 1830 for the Count d’Orsay and reconstructed in 2008 by Florent Leblanc, Etiquette Bleue contains notes of lemon, bergamot, orange, petit grain, rosemary, rosewood, orange blossom, sandalwood, balsam of peru and oakmoss.

Etiquette Bleue opens fresh with an accord full of citrus blended with the aromatic stringency of rosemary. It is a wonderful smelling, bracing wake-up call. Soon the scent mellows into sweeter territory thanks to orange blossom that is soft and sweet and decidedly non-soapy, which I love. All to soon the perfume dries down into a woody-mossy base that on my skin turns out a bit sweet, but in a good way and does last surprisingly long on me, although it is very quiet and shy.

The delightful evolution of Etiquette Bleue goes by in a matter of minutes, compelling me to reapply frequently to experience it over and over again. This is not a scent where a small decant gets you very far. In the spirit of living in the moment, I love Etiquette Bleue, but as an investment, I’d have to say go with something more long-lasting. But, there is a “but”… in a moment.

The genre of cologne and longevity have been at odds until the lovely people of Atelier Cologne came along and brought us truly long-lasting, highly concentrated cologne absolues. (Orange Sanguine, Bois Blonds, Trefle Pur, Oolang Infini, Grand Neroli and Vanille Insensée.)

I enjoy applying Etiquette Bleue lavishly as a refreshing summer treat and it fits my desire for the uncomplicated and simple that overcomes me from time to time, when I have had enough of testing things like Skarb, or wearing opulent creations like Amouage for days on end.

Etiquette Bleue is a kind of base line for my nose, a re-calibrating scent, a perfume that lets me breathe free again and reminds me of what is “normal”. For that it needs not to be longlasting, on the contrary, I like the fact that it is gone soon, opening up my nose and my skin for new possibilities. (That was the “but”!)

Something like that is essential in any Perfumistas collection.

What are your re-calibrating perfumes?

Image source: thedifferentscent.de,  Piotr Grzywocz via wikimedia.commons
Posted in Citrus, Fragrance Reviews, Musk, Parfums d'Orsay | Tagged , , , , , , , | 22 Comments

A Worthy Ending – Review: By Kilian Sweet Redemption, The End

Posted on September 7, 2011 by Olfactoria

The tenth and last perfume in the L’Oeuvre Noire Collection is the one I was sure about from the moment I read the notes list. Sometimes you just know (or rather hope, and are afraid of taking the first whiff of the actual perfume for fear of being disappointed, for fear of what is in your head, is better than reality.)

Sweet Redemption, The End brings to an end the complicated love story of Kilian’s collection. Created by Calice Becker, Sweet Redemption includes notes of orange blossom, vanilla, myrrh, opopanax, benzoin and incense.
Opening with sweet and fully blooming orange blossom, Sweet Redemption is not a perfume with a huge development. The tone is set from the start and although it deepens and darkens over time, the perfume feels almost linear, but not in a stagnant or boring way, with me it is rather the case of being glad that every single note I love in there, stays with me as long as the perfume lasts.

Some have reported a sour or bitter note in the heart of Sweet Redemption, thankfully that is lost on me. I only perceive a slight green note coming with the orange blossom which keeps it from being too sweet, since all the other notes contribute to the sweet and resinous character of the perfume, that little bit of green air sweeping through, is quite welcome to me.

The longer the perfume is on my skin the more the emphasis moves to the warm resins and vanilla base, accented by a slight inflection of incense, but not incense being burned, there is no smokiness, but the resinous aspect of incense is there, like a few crystals lying in the sun and getting soft in the heat.

Sweet Redemption is exactly what I wanted it to be. A cozy, undemanding, comforting, but impeccably beautiful fragrance to lie down on, like on a pillow. It is dark orange, like evening sunlight filtered through linen curtains, warm and warming.

Sweet Redemption is a worthy final perfume of a beautiful collection. Bathed in its orange light, bedded on its soft cushions, I contentedly await what Kilian Hennessy will come up with next.

Image source: cafleurebon.com, west-crete.com
Posted in By Kilian, Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Gourmand | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 30 Comments

In The Garden Of Good And Evil – Review: Mona di Orio Les Nombres d’Or Oud

Posted on September 6, 2011 by Olfactoria

This is the most expensive and most precious perfume I own.

Yes, I do own a bottle (albeit, not the entire bottle, I am hosting a split) of Oud Parfum Intense from Mona di Orio’s Les Nombres d’Or line. And I don’t even like oud, or so I thought…

Created in 2011 by Mona di Orio, Oud includes notes of elemi from the Phillipines, green mandarin from Calabria, petitgrain from Paraguay, patchouli from Indonesia, osmanthus absolue from China, nagarmotha from India, cedarwood from Atlas, essential oil Oudh from Laos, musc and ambergris.

In this review of Tubéreuse, I talked about how one note should never be dismissed, because someone will always come up with an interpretation just ideal for you.

Mona di Orio came up with not only an interpretation, but a revelation.

She used real, authentic essential oil from Laotian Oudh in a western perfume and she did so in an amazing way. Not only is it the first time I smelled real oud, an eye opening experience in itself, but she pairs that intense and breathtakingly complex note with one of my favorite floral notes – osmanthus – and thereby melds heaven and earth, black and white, good and evil, two absolute opposites into a marriage of beauty that had an almost magical effect on me.

Oud is a stunning composition, strong, powerful, unusual, tender, delicate, familiar. Spellbinding.

When I first applied Oud, very carefully I might add, fully expecting the worst, it was late at night. Probably not one of my best ideas to try something new before going to sleep, but in this case it turned out perfectly.

Oud kept me up the whole night, but not in a bad way. It was just that whenever I moved, it wormed its way into my consciousness and despite being quasi asleep, I moved my hand in front of my nose countless times that night, only to smile and sigh with pleasure. What a perfume!

The first hour is strong and very heavy on the oud. It struts in and presents itself, like a lion to his pride. It is fully aware of its power and glory, the respect and even fear it engenders and it is proud of what it is and what it can do.

Over the next hours, very slowly the balance starts to shift, and the oud gets more mellow, more quiet, more distanced as it starts to sing a soft duet with the second main player in this opus, osmanthus. A soft and gourmand-leaning flower from china, osmanthus smells like apricots and smooth white flowers (see my reviews of favorite osmanthus scents: Hermes Osmanthe Yunnan, Ormonde Jayne Osmanthus and Parfum d’Empire Osmanthus Inderdite).

This is my favorite phase, I sit and shake my head in wonder at how marvelously blended those two disparate notes are, at how exquisite their interplay, how seemingly effortless the tiny flower of Osmanthus conquers the great lion Oud and makes him purr like a kitten.

Oud lasts for an entire day (or night!) and has a beautiful, but not overwhelming sillage.

Due to its nature (the inclusion of such a rare and expensive essential oil, costing 18000€ per Kilogram), Oud is in limited release, not available everywhere and most probably not forever. I bought mine at First in Fragrance.

Oud and osmanthus – the combination fascinates me every time I wear this perfume, which is often these days. The quality and unique properties of the natural oud oil and the way it is used and orchestrated in this creation, make me rever Mona di Orio as one of the truly great artists working today. Take this, Dr Turin!

Image source: luckyscent.com, pixdaus.com
Posted in Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Mona di Orio, Woods | Tagged , , , , , , , | 92 Comments