The Gentle Breezes Of Spring – Review: Parfums de Nicolai Week-end à Deauville

Parfums de Nicolai is a line that is so much under the radar it is really a shame. I blame the packaging, because once you get past that, the perfumes are exquisite and very well worth your time and attention. This just proves – for me at least – that a) many people are highly visual and b) packaging is important. (This discussion allows a similar conclusion.)

I only reviewed one of Guerlain niece and Osmothéque president Patricia de Nicolai’s perfumes until now, Sacre Bleu, but I definitely want to expand my knowledge of the line a bit more in the future.

nicolai weekend a deauvilleWeek-end á Deauville was created by Patricia de Nicolai and includes notes of Italian bergamot, petit grain, galbanum, lily of the valley, rose, mimosa, pepper, pink pepper, clove, oakmoss absolute and styrax balm.

There was a first, limited edition of this perfume, that has been reformulated due to ingredient restrictions. This review is based on a sample of the new, permanent addition to the line.

Upon first spray, it is clear that Week-end á Deauville is a classic, sparkly, citrus chypre in the manner of Chanel Cristalle, Bel Respiro or the new Vero Profumo Mito. The green opening is sustained for a long time, citrus notes and galbanum holding up well and only slowly being fleshed out by a more floral accord of lily of the valley and hyacinth, before – hours later – segueing into a leather-tinged, mossy base that preserves the idea of cool, green freshness until the very end.

Week-end à Deauville is a breath of fresh air, a long-awaited and very much needed one after a long, cold winter. Imagine the first days of spring sunshine, the air is still crisp but clear, there is a sense of new beginnings all around.

I have never been to the French coast in Normandy, where the city that gives name to this perfume lies, but when I wear Week-end á Deauville, I can easily imagine a leisurely stroll at the seaside, the air, the water and the newly sprouting grass equally fragrant. This perfume is fresh and clean in a way far removed from the way we have (unfortunately) learned to use these words. This is the fresh and clean of nature, not of shampoo and soap.

I have a hard time with change, even when this change is something I have longed for. So every spring I find myself absurdly reluctant to just enjoy it. Although I moaned and groaned about the long and dark days of a grey winter only last week, I now stupidly cling to it, and all the rituals that came with it.

first_crocus_2008

Week-end á Deauville helps me to just relax and give in to the changes nature is going through, to take a deep breath and let go of the old, embrace the new and just let myself be blown into spring on its gentle breezes.

Image source: fragrantica.com, coldclimategardening.com
Posted in Chypre, Citrus, Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Green, Parfums Nicolai | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 65 Comments

Monday Question – Serge Lutens or Frédéric Malle: You Must Choose!

We had a lot of fun with the previous showdowns Chanel vs. Guerlain and By Kilian vs. Parfumerie Générale, so I thought it was time for another one.

I chose to set Serge Lutens against Frédéric Malle since both their houses are lead by charismatic men who work closely with perfumers to fulfill their fragrant visions. Both houses have a great variety of high quality perfumes that stand out from the crowd.

So who is your favorite? Are you a Malle fan or a Lutens groupie?

Whose perfumes grab you more? Which line dominates in your collection?

Remember: You MUST choose!

Okay, let’s do it!

question-markMy Answer:

Both of these lines have played a major role in my becoming a Perfumista. They were the first I explored and who drew me inexorably down the rabbit hole. My very first bottle of niche perfume came from Frédéric Malle – En Passant – my second was a Lutens – Chergui.

frederic_malle_paris

In the years since, I have had a pretty constant and smooth-going relationship with Malle. My favorites are the ravishing Carnal Flower and the amazing Iris Poudre. But I like many more, the only one I can’t still come to grips with is Un Fleur de Cassie and sadly Portrait of a Lady gives me a major headache (almost when I merely think of it) even though I find it extremely beautiful.

Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle Reviews

serge-lutens-05Serge Lutens and I on the other hand: now that has been a wild ride. It is either love or hate, but unfortunately never contentment. My opinions and my tolerance of his fragrances veer wildely back and forth between adoration and animosity. To my utter shame, I have to admit that I bought and sold bottles of his perfumes like a small department store. I loved it, I had to have it right this instant. I hated it, it had to go, and fast!

From a sizable chunk of his oeuvre I once had in my possession, only a few bottles have remained. One is Ambre Sultan, which is striclty speaking no longer mine, as my husband has adopted it and regularly wears it. I like it more on him than myself nowadays. Another is Jeux de Peau, where I enjoy the opening very much, but seldom wear it because it wears me out after a couple of hours. The one I wear most often is the one that started Lutens’s empire: Feminité du Bois.

So who do I choose?

It is pretty clear that Malle is my choice, since emotions don’t fly as high in either direction with his perfumes and it is better in the long run to stay with the good and dependable friend than the wild love affair, isn’t it? Great love and bottomless hate are wearying and tiring us out, contentment and safety are much more conductive to longterm happiness.

That might be true for more than just perfume…

Image source: paris.com, theparisblog.com
Posted in Frederic Malle, Monday Question, Serge Lutens | Tagged , , , , | 125 Comments

Perfume News: Le Labo Aldehyde 44 Discontinued – Plus Review

Le Labo is discontinuing its Dallas exclusive fragrance Aldehyde 44. The Barney’s store in Dallas has been home to Le Labo, and unfortunately it is closing on March 2. Le Labo are saying: No Dallas, no Aldehyde 44. A decision I find really sad, since I enjoy this perfume and it would have been lovely to welcome it into the more easily available regular Le Labo range.

le labo aldehyde

The perfume is available online and at stand-alone Le Labo stores from now until the end of March. If you are thinking of buying it before it is too late, here is my review to maybe help swaying you in the one or the other direction.

Le Labo Aldehyde 44 Review

Do you like this fragrance? Will you be stocking up? Would have preferred for the brand to keep it in their portfolio?

Posted in Aldehydic, Le Labo, Woods | Tagged , , , | 27 Comments

A Secret Palace – Finding Hidden Beauty Part VIII

What is behind this door?

http://instagram.com/p/Vqb-jXPUlG/

Let’s find out…

http://instagram.com/p/Vq60pEvUjL/

http://instagram.com/p/Vq667zvUjP/

The Palais Ferstel is a palace in Vienna’s inner city, but you have to go looking for it. When walking along Herrengasse, it doesn’t loudly announce itself (it does do that on Freyung though, were the main entrance of the buiding is located).

http://instagram.com/p/Vq7LjWvUjX/

http://instagram.com/p/Vq7VpovUjb/

All you see is here is a dark-grey wall and tall windows – and an intricate wooden door. Open it and the gorgeous arcades, the fountain and the glass ceiling inside are there to enchant you.

http://instagram.com/p/Vq7tc6vUjl/

I’ve passed by thousands of times, but never went in. I’m glad I did now.

http://instagram.com/p/Vq7fEAvUjf/

We are lucky in this city to be surrounded by awe-inspiring beauty behind (almost) every door.

http://instagram.com/p/Vq72JbvUjo/

Are there secret doors where you live? What would you like to find behind them?

Photos are mine.
Posted in Beauty, Photography | Tagged , , , , | 56 Comments

In The Circle Of Trust – My Top Five Perfumes (For Now)

The original title of this post was: “What remains when the wild frenzy ends.”

But then I thought about Robert DeNiro’s character in Meet the Parents, who maintained a Circle of Trust, wherein only a very select few trusted individuals were allowed.

meet-the-fockers-robert-de-niro-image

In the recent months, as many of you know, my perfume wearing habits have changed and today I want to explore a bit which perfumes are still with me after this transition and why.

I’ve experienced a narrowing of my perfume tolerance (not taste though!) and many things I used to love are not wearable for me at the moment (for example: Shalimar and Ambre Sultan are no-go’s for now).

Which perfumes do I still rely on (after an apparent loss of faith in many of them) to let them into the Circle of Trust?

Dior New Look 1947: A powdery cloud of abstact florals, comforting and feminine.

Hermès L’Ambre des Merveilles: An airy combination of fresh orange notes and a soft amber base. Cosy and so easy to slip into like a favorite sweater.

Chanel Bois des Iles: Like a Chanel handbag it works just as well in jeans or an evening gown. An ideal balance of sophistcated eleagance and comforting warmth.

Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle Iris Poudre: Warm iris and rose sparkle through a softly aldehydic cloud of enshrouding mists, subtly soapy, perfectly powdery.

Puredistance I: An abstract floral on a musky base emanating purity, clarity and serenity. Pure white in a grey world.

circle of trust

All of these perfumes are somewhat similar (at least in feel). Apparently I crave abstract florals, modern aldehydes that create a powdery haze and a warm oriental base. Comfort seems to be the common thread here. Comfort and elegance, the cashmere sweaters of the perfume world are in my circle of trust. The leather jackets, the silk blouses, the taffeta gowns, the ripped jeans and the cotton shifts of my fragrant wardrobe are on hold.

So I conclude, it is not diversity I am after, but I crave the same kind of comfort, elegance and softness again and again. Complex stories, demanding perfumes, challenging scents, provocative fragrances – please take a seat in the waiting room. We’ll let you know when a vacancy opens up…

Honorable mentions, who are allowed into the circle of trust now and again:

Roja Dove Unspoken, Hermès 24 Faubourg, Nabucco Amytis, Puredistance Opardu, Jour d’Hermès and the Guerlain L’Art et la Matière line.

I have found contentment, at least for now. And that is perfectly fine with me.

Do you have a fragrant Circle of Trust? What is in, what is out right now? What does it take for a perfume to get in?

Posted in Chanel, Dior, Dior La Collection Privée, Frederic Malle, Hermès, Les Exclusifs de Chanel, Nabucco | Tagged , , , , , , , | 90 Comments

Monday Question – Your Ideal Perfume: Give Me Your Brief, Please!

I’m sure you have often dreamed of the one, the ideal perfume. The scent that you would make for yourself if you could.

Let’s play today, let’s be creative directors for a day: Give me your perfume brief.

What should it smell like? What feelings should it evoke? Who is it for? Who should be the perfumer? What does the bottle look like? What is it called?

question-markMy Answer:

I’d like Monsieur Jean Claude Ellena to create a fabulous perfume called Cuir d’Hermès for me (and everyone else who’d like to try it).

Cuir d’Hermès is a gauzy and transparent leather scent (yes, I am aware of the contradiction). It is soft, warm and suede-like. It smells like a greige/taupe/etoupe leather bag looks.

HERMES ETOUPE

Monsieur Ellena has a free hand when it comes to raw materials, money is no object (this is a fantasy after all!). I’d like to smell soft leather, vanilla, resins and spices on wood, all of this lifted by a powdery cloud of gentle aldehydes.

Cuir d’Hermès comes in a simple, leather sheathed bottle that can be personalized with your initials.

Cuir d’Hermès is for elegant, sophisticated women and men who look for subtlety and refinement, who want to make a statement through restraint not obviousness. Cuir d’Hermés is effortless chic and natural grace.

It’s your turn now! I can’t wait to read about your ideas!

Posted in Hermès, Monday Question | Tagged , , , , , | 80 Comments

Fragrant Fiction – Book Review: Aphrodesia by John Oehler

By Jordan River

In the flickering light of a hundred oil lamps, Balquees stood in her bath trying to conceal her anxiety from the servant girls washing her.

“We have come prepared, my queen.” Stepping forward, the vizier produced a golden flask from his robes.“Provided you are willing to endure a rapture so powerful it could consume both of you in its fire.”
“I am willing.”
He hesitated. “Are you certain?”
Balquees held out her hand. “Give me the fragrance.”

So begins Aphrodesia, a scented story by John Oehler. I can already see the movie starring a bronzed Katie Puckrick as Balquees, The Queen of Sheba. After such a portentous beginning I was so disappointed when the tale moved into the 21 century and stayed there. The disappointment lasted a chapter or two then I became fully engaged in the perfume action which moved like lightening from Versailles to New York, Yemen, Marseilles, Grasse, Nice, and Cap d’Ail.

Eric, a talented student of perfume making, perfects a perfume that acts as an aphrodisiac. His perfume formula, based on The Queen of Sheba’s SOTN when she met King Solomon, is stolen along with a crucial ingredient. A plagiarised perfume is then launched with world wide commercial success. Unfortunately the copycat version enflames not just passion but murder which thankfully is not expressed in gory detail in the style of Süskind (“Perfume”).

Top perfumery school ISIPCA, the Osmothèque, a perfume launch in a palace, police departments, forensic chemistry labs, an ingredient distillery, and a jail are meticulously described. This novel is extremely well researched and full of perfume knowledge and terms. The author has explored perfume and its associated industries for 29 years. His interest took him to the French perfume museum and repository, the Osmothèque where he meet Jean Kerléo, the founder and president. Prior to founding the museum Jean spent 30 years as the Master Perfumer for Jean Patou. This man became the inspiration for John’s novel. John wanted to write a story that would honor the perfume profession. He has achieved this goal with considerable aplomb in his third novel. This fumey fiction is a thriller.

Jean Kerléo, Osmothèque

A vault in the Osmothèque presided over by Jean Kerléo. Photo: John Oehler

ISIPCA, perfume school, Versailles

ISIPCA is the post-grad school in Versailles for perfume, cosmetic and flavour studies
Photo: http://www.osmotheque.fr

I wanted to be annoyed about the exotic and erotic typecasting of the Chinese Lesbian Flavourist but I couldn’t be. Her character was so engaging and her razor sharp mind continuously moved the plot forward to a breathtaking climax, in a library. Aspects of human nature are explored as Abby, the Chinese Lesbian Flavourist, and Tanya, the forensic chemist assist Eric in finding the formula thief.

Tired of oud perfume releases? Ha, oud is a crucial part of the plot. The oud tsunami has swept beyond reality into fiction.

There are sensual scenes which are easy to skim if, like me, you prefer to make love rather than reading about it.

Hopefully John will complete the Queen of Sheba story in an upcoming novel.

When John was studying perfume he realized his scent preferences were Oriental. Orientals are also his wife’s preferred notes, a fact which he says has contributed to their lifelong compatibility. Sweet.

One of the premises of the book is that

Great perfumes have always had one purpose: to seduce. – John Oehler

I disagree. I scent for personal pleasure and on some occasions to create atmosphere. But maybe is he is right because I am often seduced by the juice, the flacon, the notes, the perfumer and the story long before I have encountered it’s sillage on another being. And you? What are your thought on the purpose of perfume?

John Oehler

John Oehler, Novelist

John is contactable through his website. He is happy to chat about the forensic uses of scent, fragrance related medical diagnoses (as a layman) and fine perfumes.

Aphrodesia, John Oehler, Perfume Fiction
Aphrodesia by John Oehler is available on Amazon for the unbelievable price of $USD2.99 (2,60€) on Kindle or $USD13.52 (11,60€) in paperback. Worth every scent.

Further Reading

John Oehler website
Post graduate perfume studies at ISIPCA
Jola visits the Osmotheque
Now Smell This – Review by Aleta
Cafleurebon Book Review by Tama Blough

Editor’s Note: Thank you, Jordan, for this engaging review, I for one will be sure to read this book soon. Please take a look at Jordan’s new blog The Fragrant Man to read more of his work.

Posted in Book Review | Tagged , , , , , | 38 Comments

Beyond The Sea – Finding Hidden Beauty Part VII

My son and I went to the Aqua Terra Zoo (“Haus des Meeres“) in Vienna the other day.

Now while I was mostly frightened to death by the spiders, snakes, insects and other godawful critters, there were just as many gorgeous and elegant creatures of the sea to be seen.

Here are a few beautiful impressions…

http://instagram.com/p/VTt9riPUug/

Turtles doing a conga line…

http://instagram.com/p/VTuIFdvUui/

A dancing seahorse.

http://instagram.com/p/VTuUyIPUuo/

A majestic sea turtle.

http://instagram.com/p/VTuigcPUux/

And a colorful fish.

My son’s favorite was the giant sea turtle and he is still not convinced that having one of these at home is not as much of a fabulous idea as he thinks.

He is hoping that he will at least get a toy turtle from the Easter bunny.

Posted in Beauty, Photography | Tagged , , , | 46 Comments

Olfactoria Is Pretty Angry – Review: Chanel 1932

When I smelled 1932 for the first time last week, it was with high expectations. It is a Chanel after all and the reviews I have read so far had been positive. Unfortunately I went away from the boutique disappointed. But not to be giving up too early, I procured a sample and proceeded to thoroughly test the newest member of Les Exclusifs.

Here are my impressions…

chanel 19321932 was created by Jacques Polge and includes notes of jasmine, vetiver and iris. (A more extensive list is provided by Fragrantica: aldehydes, bergamot, neroli, jasmine, rose, lilac, carnation, ylang-ylang, vetiver, sandalwood, opoponax, orris root, coumarin, ambrette, musk, incense, vanilla and iralia.)

1932 smells good. So much for that. My problem is that is smells good in an entirely predictable way. I experienced a distinct “been there, smelled that” sensation. 1932 smells expensive (as it well should!) and it smells clean, fresh, floral, soapy… what does this all add up to? For me it adds up to the idea of shampoo unfortunately.

1932 is part of a genre I would think is already sufficiently covered, not only on the perfume market in general but even within the Les Exclusifs line. Beige and Gardènia are both done in the same vein. Pretty, inoffensive, happy, clean florals that are a decent and faithful everyday companions exuding the typical Chanel elegance, but none of its character.

1932 doesn’t stand out, on the contrary: it blends in.

The perfume is inspired by Chanel’s jewellery line, sparkling diamonds, precious metals, unbelievable luxury and beauty – what an inspiration and all they came up with is an inoccuous floral?

Since I only do one review per week these days, I usually want it to be of something I really like. I don’t like to spend my time with things I don’t adore or that leave me cold. But here I wanted to make a point writing about it anyway.

Because the thing is this: I do not hate 1932. It is well made, it smells good enough to wear without regrets over a few days as I did, but – big but – it is a huge disappointment, because it makes me feel like the perfume industry has given up.

Indies and small companies aside, the big shots (of which Chanel is one of the biggest in my eyes and I don’t mean numbers and money here) don’t dare to be innovative anymore. Fear leads the nose of Jacques Polge, fear and consideration of the needs of his marketing department, not creativity, not art, not the curiosity to explore new paths. He played it safe.

1932 is interchangeable, for me it lacks character and spine. Maybe I’m too harsh here, but in my opinion the house of Chanel deserves more. The name Chanel should be on creations that are extraordinary, not your run-of-the-mill, nice and pretty, everyday floral.

Found-this-angry-cat-in-my-boyfriends-yard

What are your thoughts?

Postscriptum: To reassure myself that Chanel is very capable of producing masterpieces, I reminded myself by wearing Bois des Iles, N°19 and 28 La Pausa and I’m truly thankful these perfume exist an I hope they will be here forever. I’m not so sure 1932 will.

Image source: becomegorgeous.com, imfunny.net
Posted in Chanel, Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Jasmine, Les Exclusifs de Chanel | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 111 Comments

Monday Question – What Is The Most Uplifting Perfume You Know?

Winter is here. Everything is grey in grey (at least in the northern hemisphere). When it is cold and dreary outside, which perfumes lift your mood?

Which scents make you happy? What perfume acts as the perfect antidote to the winter blahs for you?

Which perfume brings color into your life at a time when nature deprives us of it?

question-markMy Answer:

The best “anti-depressant” in the scented world for me is grapefruit. Sharp, bright, juicy, perfectly balanced between sweet and bitter, grapefruit is the note I turn to in times of those heavy “too much winter for too long” feelings.

Hermès Eau de Pamplemousse Rosé, Guerlain Pamplelune, Jo Loves Pomelo or Ormonde Jayne Osmanthus work beautifully to get me out of hibernation and bring new energy when it is needed.

How about your secret happiness weapons?

Posted in Monday Question | Tagged , , , , , , | 127 Comments