I first encountered Rose Cut at the Perfume Lovers London “Roses Revisited” event. We tried an awful lot of rose fragrances that evening so it must have made an impression for me to request a sample.
I think the Ann Gérard bottles are particularly stylish.
Parisian jeweller Ann Gérard released her first collection of three fragrances in 2012. They were composed by her long-time customer and friend, Bertrand Duchaufour.
Rose Cut (also by Duchaufour) joined the trio in 2014. It is named after a very old technique of cutting diamonds which creates radiance and gives the gemstone the appearance of a rose.
I rather like this quote from Ann Gérard about who she envisions wearing this scent:
“Rose Cut is for someone that knows what she wants. I imagine that she smokes and drinks and is very powerful.”
The composition contains notes of aldehydes, rum, pink pepper, rose, peony, patchouli, vanilla, oak wood and benzoin.
Rose Cut unfurls with a steady trickle of booze, giving you a hint that this rose is not as innocent as it first appears. It lends the fragrance an immediate depth and this sweet rum accord persists well into the heart.
I thought I’d also get a big dose of aldehydes but the effect of that classic accord is a lot more subtle. It gives the scent luminosity around the edges, like diamonds glittering on velvet petals.
The rose is fruity and softly sweet with an almost cosmetic feel. It takes centrestage in the first couple of Acts. As Rose Cut develops, the mood shifts and it becomes darker. It transforms on the skin into something less feminine and more complex.
As it dries down, the fruity rose starts to recede and there is a noticeable aroma of what I noted down as “spiced sawdust” (Victoria of Bois de Jasmin is more precise, referring to cinnamon and incense ashes). This resinous, slightly smoky facet is quite a contrast to the sweet, feminine rose. Earthy patchouli is also part of the setting which conspires to accentuate the beauty of the central bloom.
The base is spicy/musky with accents of rose and a touch of vanilla.
Whilst wearing, I experience an enticing scent trail and excellent longevity for an Eau de Parfum.
Overall I admire Rose Cut, but I’m not a big fan of boozy notes and the spicy/ashy accord doesn’t really appeal. Therefore once the rose starts to retreat, so do I. All the same, I’m impressed by its quality and distinctive structure. I also like how it’s a little debauched and seductive.
Rose Cut possesses a modern edge and could well please those seeking a rose fragrance that has sophistication and mystique but wears both lightly.
Do you know Rose Cut or any of the other Ann Gérard fragrances?