Bejewelled: Review – Ann Gérard Rose Cut

By Tara

I first encountered Rose Cut at the Perfume Lovers London “Roses Revisited” event. We tried an awful lot of rose fragrances that evening so it must have made an impression for me to request a sample.

I think the Ann Gérard bottles are particularly stylish.

rose-cut-visual

Parisian jeweller Ann Gérard released her first collection of three fragrances in 2012. They were composed by her long-time customer and friend, Bertrand Duchaufour.

Rose Cut (also by Duchaufour) joined the trio in 2014. It is named after a very old technique of cutting diamonds which creates radiance and gives the gemstone the appearance of a rose.

I rather like this quote from Ann Gérard about who she envisions wearing this scent:

“Rose Cut is for someone that knows what she wants. I imagine that she smokes and drinks and is very powerful.”

The composition contains notes of aldehydes, rum, pink pepper, rose, peony, patchouli, vanilla, oak wood and benzoin.

Rose Cut unfurls with a steady trickle of booze, giving you a hint that this rose is not as innocent as it first appears. It lends the fragrance an immediate depth and this sweet rum accord persists well into the heart.

I thought I’d also get a big dose of aldehydes but the effect of that classic accord is a lot more subtle. It gives the scent luminosity around the edges, like diamonds glittering on velvet petals.

The rose is fruity and softly sweet with an almost cosmetic feel. It takes centrestage in the first couple of Acts. As Rose Cut develops, the mood shifts and it becomes darker. It transforms on the skin into something less feminine and more complex.

As it dries down, the fruity rose starts to recede and there is a noticeable aroma of what I noted down as “spiced sawdust” (Victoria of Bois de Jasmin is more precise, referring to cinnamon and incense ashes). This resinous, slightly smoky facet is quite a contrast to the sweet, feminine rose. Earthy patchouli is also part of the setting which conspires to accentuate the beauty of the central bloom.

The base is spicy/musky with accents of rose and a touch of vanilla.

Whilst wearing, I experience an enticing scent trail and excellent longevity for an Eau de Parfum.

Overall I admire Rose Cut, but I’m not a big fan of boozy notes and the spicy/ashy accord doesn’t really appeal. Therefore once the rose starts to retreat, so do I. All the same, I’m impressed by its quality and distinctive structure. I also like how it’s a little debauched and seductive.

display-roses-bovenstuk-met-glitter-high-resolution

Rose Cut possesses a modern edge and could well please those seeking a rose fragrance that has sophistication and mystique but wears both lightly.

See Olfactoria’s reviews of Cuir de Nacre and Perle de Mousse from Ann Gérard.

Do you know Rose Cut or any of the other Ann Gérard fragrances?

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27 Responses to Bejewelled: Review – Ann Gérard Rose Cut

  1. Ines says:

    I haven’t smelled any of the Ann Gerard perfumes but I like the sound of this one. Booze notes don’t bother me, quite the contrary. 😉

  2. Vanessa says:

    Beautiful, beguiling review! I love Rose Cut – it is my favourite rose discovery in a long while. I found it very comforting during a stressful work project recently, yet I couldn’t rightly tell you how it smelt. If pushed, I might say: ‘A bit green to start, maybe?’ I totally missed the boozy aspect – I usually hate rum wherever it pitches up – so I must go back and wear it with a more focused nose. Ann Gerard’s own description of her target audience took me aback as well, as I thought this one was quite demure! Maybe I am a complete floozy then…;) Retest called for!

    • Tara says:

      How nice that Rose Cut helped through that stress project. The rum is subdued and unusually, quite sweet, so I’m not at all surprised you didn’t register it.

      Let me know how your re-test goes. We need to know if you are a boozy floozy 🙂

  3. Asali says:

    What a gorgeous review, you make me want to jump up and order a sample, especially as I’m on an ongoing rose hunt. On my hunt, I’ve realised some problems, like why does a rose scent have to have either patch or peony or both? Or oud of course. I see Rose Cut has both, so I suppose it won’t be my thing after all, but not because of the booze and smoke which sounds enticing, but then wearing Bal a Versailles at the moment debauched seems to be my mood 😉

    • Tara says:

      Asali, I am bored to death of the rose/patch combo but it’s really fine here. Not pronouced at all. I wouldn’t call it smoky though. It’s more like the smell after something has been burning.

      Oooh Bal a Versailles. I think being in a debauched mood is a very good thing!

  4. Sandra says:

    Beautiful review Tara. I have not had the opportunity to smell any of these yet. I will give it a try if I come across it but I must admit that I am weary of boozy fragrances.

    • Tara says:

      Thanks Sandra. You may not take to Rose Cut then, although Vanessa didn’t notice the booze. It could be a case of knowing the notes ahead of testing making me pick up on it. I think the collection as a whole is well worth exploring.

  5. cookie queen says:

    Hi Tara! Also not a boozy note fan. I think I tried this in Milan 2014, but have no memory of what it was like. I’ll give it a whirl if I come across it. And yes, the bottle is really lovely. Any hint of cinnamon and you won’t see me for dust though. Bussi. xxxx

    • Tara says:

      It seems to have been a success. I know it’s one of Lila’s (PLL) favourites. I doubt it’s for you but you might like Perle de Mousse.

  6. Suzanne says:

    Hi Tara! I have a sample of Rose Cut and find it very pretty, largely due to how you describe the effect the light aldehydes give it. Similar to what Vanessa said, I was surprised to hear the profile that Ann Gerard gives for the person she sees wearing this perfume, because it does come across much more delicately and sparkly to my nose.

    Thanks for sharing your impressions of it – they are lovely, as always.

    • Tara says:

      Thank-you so much Suzanne. Always lovely to hear from you.
      The way aldehydes are used here is really clever and different to the norm.
      I only get Ann Gerard’s impression of it in the drydown. Until then, it’s sweet, fruity and feminine.

  7. ajones-aromatics says:

    I like the sound of it. I don’t like the taste of rum but am always keen to see how it is translated into perfumes, and how it pairs with other notes.

    • Tara says:

      Rum notes seem to be a little sweeter than other alcoholic notes I find. Much like the spirit, I guess. I really hope you like Rose Cut if you get to try it.

  8. This sounds amazing. The bottle is beautifully designed.

  9. This seems to have lived 1000x better on your skin than mine Tara. As always you write beautifully and even though you aren’t particularly a fan you made me want to retry it to smell these pieces of the puzzle I missed.
    Portia xx.

    • Tara says:

      Thanks! I think it might be worth you giving Rose Cut another go Portia. It has a lot of fans. I can appreciate it even though it didn’t work for me from start to finish.

  10. Undina says:

    Ok, I need to re-test Rose Cut. The only time I tested it, it started very nicely but, as I wrote in my notes, “it quickly settled into sweet nothing.” I will revisit it: maybe I just had a bad day?

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