New York Via Grasse: Review – Von Eusersdorff Classic Orange, Classic Opoponax, Classic Mimosa and Classic Patchouli

By Tara

The stylised flower logo of perfume house Von Eusersdorff first caught my eye on social media. After reading a number of positive reports, I got some samples of the fragrances.

o.1541
Von Eusersdorff was established by Camille Henfling, who has built upon his family’s heritage as traders in rare oils, herbs, spices and flower petals. The fragrances are produced in Grasse, but are inspired by the brand’s base of New York City.

camille-henfling-von-eusersdorffThe first release was Classic Patchouli in 2011, followed by Classic Vetiver, Classic Myrrh, Classic Mimosa and Classic Orange. This year saw the launch of their sixth fragrance, Classic Opoponax. Here are mini reviews of four of them:

Classic Orange

Notes: Blood orange, petitgrain, suede, Chinese osmanthus, black tea, sandalwood and musk.

Orange-Tree

Classic Orange starts at the fruit and then moves into the branches of the orange tree. It starts as an incredibly well rounded orange scent. Not so juicy that you feel like you should be drinking it with your breakfast, but an extremely well balanced combination of pulp, peel and pith.

As it develops, we climb up into the leaves and twigs, with a back note of diffusive soapiness and a lingering orange tang. I know citrus notes are hard to sustain but I would love to have that opening on repeat.

Classic Opoponax

Notes: Rose, jasmine, opoponax, sandalwood, benzoin, castoreum, amber, patchouli and vanilla.

sandstorm
I find opoponax – also known as sweet myrrh – similar to benzoin but without the vanilla facet. Classic Opoponax opens with a scattering of red rose petals and then settles on softly smoky, slightly dusty, resins. An intimate musk comes through in the base.

It has a mysterious and far away feel. I’m reclining on jewel-coloured cushions in a Bedouin tent while a sandstorm swirls outside. Classic Opoponax a beguiling, gentle oriental with a spare yet elegant character.

Classic Mimosa

Top notes are neroli and bergamot with green leaves. Middle notes incorporate mimose, violet, rose and sea notes, while base notes include musk, orange blossom and vanilla.

Mimosa_-_Le_Muy
I’ve tended to avoid mimosa fragrances for fear they would showcase a nemesis note of mine – almond. I don’t get a pronounced almond facet from Classic Mimosa, but I do get a hint of Playdoh.

It’s a very spring-like, floaty, floral bouquet with a nice amount of dewiness. Violets, green leaves and flower buds sway in the breeze. The whole thing is very fresh, pretty and airy.

Classic Patchouli

Notes: Bergamot, black patchouli, vanilla, tonka bean and sandalwood.

chocolate flow

This isn’t the soul-less, cleaned up stuff that passes for patchouli these days. Classic Patchouli is an old-school, earthy patchouli but with just enough polish to make it modern and stylish. For the first time, I pick up the chocolatey facet people talk about.

This is a must-try for patchouli lovers but don’t just take my word for it; check out the fabulous review on Australian Perfume Junkies by patch afficionado, Val the Cookie Queen.
Have you tried the Von Eusersdorff fragrances? Do any of the above appeal to you?

Advertisements

About Olfactoria

I'm on a journey through the world of fragrance - come with me!
This entry was posted in By Tara, Fragrance Reviews and tagged , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

32 Responses to New York Via Grasse: Review – Von Eusersdorff Classic Orange, Classic Opoponax, Classic Mimosa and Classic Patchouli

  1. Hey Tara,
    This line intrigues me but I was waiting to be with Val to try them so she can explain the mysteries. Thanks for the heads up. Now that you have added your enjoyment to Val’s I think I should order some samples.
    Those pics are wonderful too.
    Portia xx

  2. Sandra says:

    Morning Tara. I enjoyed trying Classic Opoponax and would like to try Classic Mimosa next. Have a great weekend. Sandra xo

  3. Ines says:

    I’m definitely trying the patchouli. 🙂
    Thanks Tara!

  4. Vanessa says:

    Great pithy reviews! Speaking of the orange one I love the notion of climbing up into the leaves and twigs. 😉 Oh, and having the opening on repeat – that is so true of many of our favourite perfume is in that regard.

    Whichever ones I have tried from this line have been thanks to you and I believe it’s the Mimosa one and the Myrrh – when you came to visit. Can’t remember if I tried the Opoponax but if it is anything like the Les Nereides one I am sure I would love it. Thumbs up to the Mimosa and thumbs down to the Myrrh, sadly, which was kind of screechy. I also like the sound of a truly chocolatey patchouly.

    • Tara says:

      Thanks, V! I recall you and Sabine both really liking the Opoponax. It was a shame about the Myrrh as you’ve been drawn to that note of late. The Mimosa is very pretty and spring-y, while the patch is top-notch (if not as chocolate-y as that pic suggests!).

  5. Sabine says:

    I like the Opoponax a lot. Myrrh was, as Vanessa said, too screechy. I want to try the Orange now, pretty much the only citrus note I enjoy wearing.

    • Tara says:

      I was pleased you and V liked the Opoponax, Sabine. I think it’s fab and it’s rare for me to gel with an oriental.
      Classic Orange doesn’t stay super-orangey for long but see what you think.

  6. Tina G says:

    Hey Tara,
    I haven’t tried any of this line. Being spring here, the mimosa sounds appealing. 🙂 And that patchouli is a must try!

    Thanks !
    Tina G xx

  7. Nice mini reviews, Tara! I’ve been eyeing Von Eusersdorff line but haven’t tried them yet. I’m interested in Classic Opoponax, Classic Mimosa and Classic Patchouli. They all sounds great.

    You know, my mind is scattered all over the place; I often think I’ve got to try this and that but then I forget all about it in a few minutes… I think it’s not a new fragrance I need, I seriously need a new brain.

    • Tara says:

      You could be describing any one of us. I think we are all perfume magpies distracted by the next shiny thing 🙂

      You have your eye on three particularly good ones there.

  8. Thanks for sharing this review! Like most perfume aficionados, I am always on the lookout for new and exciting scents. The 3 mentioned can easily attract interests. They seem worth checking out. 🙂

  9. Suzanne says:

    You make all of these sound quite good, Tara – but especially Classic Opoponax and Classic Patchouli. Your mini review of the latter has me thinking that I’ll wear Chanel Coromandel today, as I get a chocolate note from the patchouli when I wear Coromandel in warm weather. Thank you for inspiring my SoTD! 🙂

    • Tara says:

      I can see you rocking both Classic Patchouli and Classic Opoponax, Suzanne.
      I’m really interesting in the fact that you get a chocolate facet from Coromandel in warm weather. I haven’t picked up on that so I’m going to wear it soon (rather than wait until it’s colder) and see if I can get it too.

      • Suzanne says:

        Yes, try it on a warm day and see if that chocolate facet emerges. Coromandel is one perfume that wears completely differently on me in summer versus winter. I don’t get the chocolate facet at all during winter, when the patchouli takes a backseat to the incense and it is altogether more balsamy and buoyant.

        • Tara says:

          I was disappointed I didn’t get the chocolate in Coromandel so I’m going to wear it to work on Monday and see. It’s still quite mild here, if soggy 🙂

  10. Asali says:

    So, now I really need to get on with the lovely samples you send, I’ve been spoiled recently and had too many great samples to choose from, and at the same time I wanted to give my ‘old loves’ some skin time too 🙂
    Anyway, patchouly does sound interesting, perhaps as you suggest, not dry, pale and itchy, but soft and chocolatey, and you certainly made me want to get on with the sampling of these.

    • Tara says:

      HI Asali,
      I’m so annoyed I “mislaid” most of the samples. I really wanted to send you the Classic Mimosa in particular. I guess they’ll turn up at some point. Can’t remember which ones I did send but take your time getting round to them. It’s not right to neglect old loves 🙂

      Oh yes, I wore a smidge of the patchouli bath oil the other weekend and enjoyed it. Surprisingly musky.

      • Asali says:

        Samples are living a life of their own, disappearing, reappearing and always multiplying… You can’t trust them!
        Yes, the patch is quite musky, and just not like any other I ever tried. It obviosuly isn’t *just* patchouly in there, but it is the predominant note.

        • Tara says:

          They DO seem to have a life of their own. I swear these ones just upped and flew off somewhere.
          I need to start being more ruthless with the ones I know I’ll never bother with or where there’s just a few drops left. Probably never happen…

  11. Lady Jane Grey says:

    I gave them a very fast sniff in a shop – and while they appeared to be done well they’re too “modern” for me, words coming to my mind were “efficient”, “practical”…
    However, I might go back to revisit the chocolatey patch – preferably wih Val 😊

  12. Martha says:

    I’ve been looking for the “right” orange forever. This sounds like something I need to try. I suspect it may not have enough bitter for someone who wants a good bit of orange peel(?) but there’s no harm in trying.

    • Tara says:

      Always worth a try, Martha. The opening orange is fantastic and some of that citrus zing does hang around.

      Orange Sangune by Atelier Cologne is the full freshly squeezed orange juice experience if you fancy that.

      • Martha says:

        Tragically, the Atelier orange turns to Orange Crush on my skin, quite promptly. The closest thing that I have to a fully satisfactory mostly-just-orange orange is, of all things, Pacifica Tuscan Orange solid. (Though looking at my own SOTDs, I liked Andy Tauer Orange Star quite a bit, back in 2011. Why didn’t I buy it? Hmmm.) (Alpona was lovely, but it’s gone and also has a strong note of Freshly Bathed Cat Getting Sweaty By Sleeping In The Sun, so it’s not the just-orange orange. And neither are all those spicy oranges.)

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s