The stylised flower logo of perfume house Von Eusersdorff first caught my eye on social media. After reading a number of positive reports, I got some samples of the fragrances.
Von Eusersdorff was established by Camille Henfling, who has built upon his family’s heritage as traders in rare oils, herbs, spices and flower petals. The fragrances are produced in Grasse, but are inspired by the brand’s base of New York City.
The first release was Classic Patchouli in 2011, followed by Classic Vetiver, Classic Myrrh, Classic Mimosa and Classic Orange. This year saw the launch of their sixth fragrance, Classic Opoponax. Here are mini reviews of four of them:
Notes: Blood orange, petitgrain, suede, Chinese osmanthus, black tea, sandalwood and musk.
Classic Orange starts at the fruit and then moves into the branches of the orange tree. It starts as an incredibly well rounded orange scent. Not so juicy that you feel like you should be drinking it with your breakfast, but an extremely well balanced combination of pulp, peel and pith.
As it develops, we climb up into the leaves and twigs, with a back note of diffusive soapiness and a lingering orange tang. I know citrus notes are hard to sustain but I would love to have that opening on repeat.
Notes: Rose, jasmine, opoponax, sandalwood, benzoin, castoreum, amber, patchouli and vanilla.
I find opoponax – also known as sweet myrrh – similar to benzoin but without the vanilla facet. Classic Opoponax opens with a scattering of red rose petals and then settles on softly smoky, slightly dusty, resins. An intimate musk comes through in the base.
It has a mysterious and far away feel. I’m reclining on jewel-coloured cushions in a Bedouin tent while a sandstorm swirls outside. Classic Opoponax a beguiling, gentle oriental with a spare yet elegant character.
Top notes are neroli and bergamot with green leaves. Middle notes incorporate mimose, violet, rose and sea notes, while base notes include musk, orange blossom and vanilla.
It’s a very spring-like, floaty, floral bouquet with a nice amount of dewiness. Violets, green leaves and flower buds sway in the breeze. The whole thing is very fresh, pretty and airy.
Notes: Bergamot, black patchouli, vanilla, tonka bean and sandalwood.
This isn’t the soul-less, cleaned up stuff that passes for patchouli these days. Classic Patchouli is an old-school, earthy patchouli but with just enough polish to make it modern and stylish. For the first time, I pick up the chocolatey facet people talk about.
This is a must-try for patchouli lovers but don’t just take my word for it; check out the fabulous review on Australian Perfume Junkies by patch afficionado, Val the Cookie Queen.
Have you tried the Von Eusersdorff fragrances? Do any of the above appeal to you?