Intimate Decadence – Review: Laboratorio Olfattivo Daimiris

By Tara

Created by the prolific perfumer Pierre Guillaume, Daimiris was one of the four fragrances in Laboratorio Olfattivo’s first collection launched in 2009. It contains top notes of saffron and cardamom, heart notes of rum, iris and daim (suede) candy accord and base notes of amber and musk.

laboratorio-olfattivo-daimiris

From the name and list of notes I expected Daimiris to be an iris suede, however that would have made it too similar to its stable-mate, Nirmal. What I actually get is a sensuous, spicy amber.

This extract from Laboratorio Olfattivo’s story behind the scent explains it:

“This fragrance is a tribute to a female divinity, enchanting and enchanted at the same time. It whispers forth notes of amber and spice and suggests delicate and harmonious movements.”

On spraying, the saffron is jewel-like and combined with the soft spice of cardamom it makes for a luxurious opening. The boozy rum is listed as a heart note but is almost immediately evident. It doesn’t belch alcohol fumes but instead adds a dizzying feeling of loucheness.

The alcohol burns off before the main course arrives, which is a spice speckled amber with a slightly powdery texture. The sublimated iris is a smear of orris butter on fine suede. Daimiris also has some saltiness which makes me think of skin and gives it that sensual touch.

The amber stays on in the base but it loses a little of the spice and gains a chocolatey nuance. It’s full of nuzzle-your-nose-into-your-skin goodness.

Daimiris is not a fragrance of that feels like pale hued chiffon, it swaths you in rich velvets of claret and gold. This is in direct contrast to the brand’s laboratory aesthetic with its functional looking bottles and talk of perfume “experiments”.

It doesn’t feel at all streamlined or avant-garde. It feels baroque and voluptuous. However, it’s a lot quieter than it sounds, embodying decadence of an intimate kind rather than a conspicuous show of wealth and status.

Daimiris whisks me off to the interior of a lavish suite in a Venetian palazzo with sumptuous fabrics, frescoed ceilings and ornate furnishings. Here, my beloved and I spend our days as well as nights lounging in bed, consuming the finest chocolate and sipping the rarest vintages.

Pierre Guillaume does sensuality so well. Whether it’s the knee trembling come-hither of L’Ombre Fauve or the private story told here, for me he sets the tone just right. Never too obvious or overpowering (although I know that style has its fans too).

It’s a rich composition but nowhere near Serge Lutens bold. It feels comfortable, relaxed and easy to wear. Daimiris would make a quietly intoxicating amber for autumn and winter with its boozy opening, exotic spice and warm skin feel.

Bedroom-from-the-Palazzo-Sagredo-1 (1)

Over the course of a day’s wear, I get soft sillage and decent longevity.

Plush ambers may be more Olfactoria’s thing than mine, but Daimiris is very inviting.

Are you a fan of amber fragrances? Any favourites?

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29 Responses to Intimate Decadence – Review: Laboratorio Olfattivo Daimiris

  1. Sabine says:

    Couldn’t agree more with your review, Tara. I love Daimiris. I have a sample and will wear it today.

  2. Sandra says:

    Beautiful review Tara. Daimiris is a wonderful perfume and you captured its essence perfectly.

  3. Asali says:

    I think I already showed my hand with this one. Reading the notes I should love it, but like all other PG’s it becomes messy on me. Your review is beautiful and quite sensual, and I can definitely see the Venetian Palazzo in this fragrance including lovers and all.

    • Tara says:

      Too bad PG’s fragrances don’t work for you. They seem so wearable, but you never know how something will turn out on your own skin.

      Good to know you can still see what I do in Daimiris. Sometimes I think I get too carried away with my overactivie imagination 🙂

      • Asali says:

        Unfortunately the ‘non-pyramid’ in the PG version too often translates as cacophony to my nose/ on my skin. But since I know most people adore his fragrances, I know I’m an exception, and don’t feel so bad about it 🙂 I do like Myrrhiad though, but more as a smell than as a perfume I suppose…

  4. cookie queen says:

    Enticing review Tara. Amber is more useful to me on a traffic light, but I never give up trying ……
    As ever I will add to to my list of things to give a go because of the way you write! xxx

    • Tara says:

      If you’ll try an amber perfume because of my writing I’ll take that as a great compliment CQ!

      You and I will probably never be amber people, but at least we have Shelley’s fantastic Captured in Amber to fill that gap.

  5. Vanessa says:

    Exquisite review, T, and you had me at the ‘dizzying feeling of loucheness’. Sounds an absolute must try – am partial to cardamom and saffron and would never throw a ‘suede candy accord’ out of bed, especially one as plushly appointed as you describe. 😉

  6. Suzanne says:

    Oh goodness, Tara – you make this sound dreamy, divine and quietly sinful. And I agree with you that “Pierre Guillaume does sensuality so well.”

    As far as ambers go, I love a number of them (though they are often so decadent that I couldn’t wear amber perfumes for days on end). Probably my favorite amber is Annick Goutal Ambre Fetiche, discovered when Birgit originally wrote about it.

    • Tara says:

      I agree Suzanne, ambers can be too much to wear day after day. Funnily enough Ambre Fetiche is the one I get on with best (aside from my new discovery of Captured in Amber by En Voyage). The frankincense cuts through the richness of the amber so nicely. I’m lucky to have a couple of decants from Undina.

  7. Tara,
    You had me at “Created by the prolific perfumer Pierre Guillaume”. I love his work, and loucheness is a word that I think bears repeating ad infinatum.
    Amber is yummy for me, I particularly like PG Ambree Ceruleen from the Huitieme Art Series and about a hundred others. If I try this I feel I would want to own it immediately, you make it read like a match made in heaven.
    Portia xx

    • Tara says:

      I totally agree, Portia. His work is so well done yet so wearable (apart for poor Asali!). I love how his fragrances often have the swoon factor but are still great for every day.

      I think you and Daimiris would absolutely be a match made in heaven because you know how to enjoy life’s pleasures! Fingers crossed you have access to this brand Down Under xx

  8. Undina says:

    What an enticing review! Now I want to try it 🙂
    I love amber perfumes. Last year I didn’t get to wear them too much (I thought it was due to an unusually warm winter) but it’s not even a real Fall here yet – but I feel an urge to wear ambers more and more recently.

    • Tara says:

      I’m happy to have enticed you!

      I definitely think cold weather works best for me with ambers but then I do need to be in the mood too. Interesting that you have a craving now. Maybe it’s because you haven’t worn them for so long.

      I hope you get a chance to try Daimiris.

  9. Michael says:

    Fantastic review Tara. Was it very boozy throughout? I do struggle with boozy fragrances but it sounds great otherwise.

    • Tara says:

      Thanks, Michael. It’s definitely only very boozy in the opening. I find a lot of alcohol too harsh but Daimiris settles down really nicely.

  10. Kandice says:

    I love ambers but haven’t found the perfect one yet. This sounds lovely. Maybe this is the one I’m looking for. Thanks for the review.

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