Created by the prolific perfumer Pierre Guillaume, Daimiris was one of the four fragrances in Laboratorio Olfattivo’s first collection launched in 2009. It contains top notes of saffron and cardamom, heart notes of rum, iris and daim (suede) candy accord and base notes of amber and musk.
From the name and list of notes I expected Daimiris to be an iris suede, however that would have made it too similar to its stable-mate, Nirmal. What I actually get is a sensuous, spicy amber.
This extract from Laboratorio Olfattivo’s story behind the scent explains it:
“This fragrance is a tribute to a female divinity, enchanting and enchanted at the same time. It whispers forth notes of amber and spice and suggests delicate and harmonious movements.”
On spraying, the saffron is jewel-like and combined with the soft spice of cardamom it makes for a luxurious opening. The boozy rum is listed as a heart note but is almost immediately evident. It doesn’t belch alcohol fumes but instead adds a dizzying feeling of loucheness.
The alcohol burns off before the main course arrives, which is a spice speckled amber with a slightly powdery texture. The sublimated iris is a smear of orris butter on fine suede. Daimiris also has some saltiness which makes me think of skin and gives it that sensual touch.
The amber stays on in the base but it loses a little of the spice and gains a chocolatey nuance. It’s full of nuzzle-your-nose-into-your-skin goodness.
Daimiris is not a fragrance of that feels like pale hued chiffon, it swaths you in rich velvets of claret and gold. This is in direct contrast to the brand’s laboratory aesthetic with its functional looking bottles and talk of perfume “experiments”.
It doesn’t feel at all streamlined or avant-garde. It feels baroque and voluptuous. However, it’s a lot quieter than it sounds, embodying decadence of an intimate kind rather than a conspicuous show of wealth and status.
Daimiris whisks me off to the interior of a lavish suite in a Venetian palazzo with sumptuous fabrics, frescoed ceilings and ornate furnishings. Here, my beloved and I spend our days as well as nights lounging in bed, consuming the finest chocolate and sipping the rarest vintages.
Pierre Guillaume does sensuality so well. Whether it’s the knee trembling come-hither of L’Ombre Fauve or the private story told here, for me he sets the tone just right. Never too obvious or overpowering (although I know that style has its fans too).
It’s a rich composition but nowhere near Serge Lutens bold. It feels comfortable, relaxed and easy to wear. Daimiris would make a quietly intoxicating amber for autumn and winter with its boozy opening, exotic spice and warm skin feel.
Over the course of a day’s wear, I get soft sillage and decent longevity.
Plush ambers may be more Olfactoria’s thing than mine, but Daimiris is very inviting.
Are you a fan of amber fragrances? Any favourites?