The niche line SoOud was launched in 2010 by perfumer Stephane Humbert Lucas, who is also the brain and nose behind Nez á Nez.
I never felt particularly moved to explore this line, because, frankly, the name irks me. I believe it is quite stupid to name an entire line after a (sadly overexposed) material, when half the perfumes not even contain it. There are four oud-less perfumes and four that contain oud, but I think it is safe to say the entire line is very French in style. So, as I see it, you discourage the anti-oud fraction from taking a look at the perfumes in the first place, and you frustrate the oud-seekers with not very Arabian perfumes, half of which do not even contain oud. That is a lose-lose situation if I ever saw one.
But that mini-rant aside, I received a sample of Ouris Parfum Nectar from the lovely Asali of All I Am – A Redhead, and despite not expecting anything much, I was floored by the beauty of Ouris. I should not have been surprised, Asali’s taste is excellent after all and we have many fragrant loves in common.
“A symphony of butterfly colors, including peach, blackcurrant and plum, shimmer against the blue sky – a rainbow of beating wings. This delicious mélange of sun-ripened fruit is folded into iris butter and almond cream and drizzled with pollen. Jasmine and white cedar add a lilting freshness and lightness, keeping this as frothy and yummy as a peach daiquiri, while sandalwood and tonka add a layer of sophistication and lasting power to the mix. A sublime summer cocktail of a scent – sensuous, delectable and utterly feminine.”
- via luckyscent.com
I don’t often cite PR material, as mostly it is not particularly relevant to the ensuing scent experience, and more often than not it is more on the funny side than helpful, but this paragraph about Ouris entices me from “symphony of butterflies” to “utter femininity”.
Ouris includes notes of peach, plum, blackcurrant, honey, tagette, jasmine, white cedar, pollen accord, almond, iris butter, vanilla, sandalwood and tonka and was created by Stephane Humbert Lucas in 2010.
Ouris, as well as all the other perfumes from SoOud comes in two cutely named concentrations, the lighter Eau Fine (comparable to Eau de Parfum comes in a white 60ml bottle) and the more concentrated Parfum Nectar (a 35% concentration in black 30ml bottles).
Ouris Eau Fine starts with the most delectable peach note, light, happy, impossibly juicy and utterly realistic. The peach becomes more plummy and a bit darker over time until it glides into a floral heart of jasmine, iris and honey so utterly yummy, it is very hard to detach yourself from your arm at any point during the first hour. That is not to say that the drydown makes it any easier to stop huffing your wrist.
But that is where the Parfum Nectar really excels. Starting out less uplifting, to borrow the words of a Perfumista friend – this is more of a peach liqueur – the Nectar is richer, deeper and really gets going on the iris-sandalwood-tonka front.
Try as I might, I am unable to recommend one concentration over the other, both are variations on a theme I can’t get enough of.
I recommend the Eau Fine for its top-notes and perfect summer-scent capabilities, but I wouldn’t want you to miss out on the depth and power of the Nectar either. Layered, the two bring you closer to a peach-hung heaven than most religions want you to be in this life.