Vero Profumo – Review: The Eaux de Parfums And Conclusions

Vero Profumo offers three extraits, Onda, Rubj and Kiki that I have reviewed in the past weeks, in addition, in 2010, perfumer Vero Kern released three Eau de Parfum versions of the perfumes. They are not just lower concentrations, but completely reworked fragrances. Luckily, I had the chance to try those as well.

Kiki Eau de Parfum:

Kiki EdP includes notes of lavender, bergamot, lemon, passion fruit, geranium, caramel, patchouli and musk.

Kiki is the one EdP I prefer to the extrait. Kiki EdP is a lovely, fresh and carefree lavender scent that morphs into a cozy gourmand, like lavender nougat. Despite sounding heavy it is not, and where the extrait can be very loud and demanding almost, the EdP remains more airy and easier for me to wear. That was a surprise insofar, as with the other two I clearly preferred the extrait versions.

Rubj Eau de Parfum:

Rubj EdP includes notes of bergamot, tangerine, neroli, passion fruit, orange blossom, tuberose, basil, cumin, cedarwood, oakmoss and musk.

When these scents came out last year, I read a review of Rubj EdP on Now Smell This, where Angela stated that Rubj smelled like a “ravished Ballerina”. That image stuck with me. I had to think about that comparison ever so often, wondering what it smelled like, until I got a sample of Rubj EdP myself recently.

In the first hour Rubj is quite a challenge, as it is a bit too dirty for my liking, but patience pays in this case, and once the onslaught of skankiness has calmed, a beautiful floral envelops me. For me it is a clear case of preferring the extrait de parfum though.

Onda Eau de Parfum:

Onda EdP includes notes of bergamot, tangerine, ginger, lemon, coriander, basil, passion fruit, ylang-ylang, honey, vetiver, patchouli, musk and cedarwood.

Onda extrait is an amazing perfume and I was wondering how an EdP with passion fruit top notes of all things, could work with that austere leather chypre. In the hands of Vero Kern, it does work. Although the lighter, more airy EdP projects more, which is something I don’t like in the case of Onda. Onda is supposed to be my coat of armor, to stay close and intimate, I don’t want it out there. So one more point for the extrait team.

I prefer Kiki in EdP, Onda and Rubj in extrait form. Generally though, I am very impressed with all three – or better: six – perfumes by Vero Kern. And for once, it looks like I am on the same page with Luca Turin.

He will be thrilled. ;)

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This entry was posted in Floral, Fougère, Fragrance Reviews, Fruity, Gourmand, Jasmine, Orange Blossom, Tuberose, Vero Profumo, Vetiver, Woods and tagged , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

39 Responses to Vero Profumo – Review: The Eaux de Parfums And Conclusions

  1. Undina says:

    It’s very interesting. Now I know that I’ll need to try Kiki in both concentrations – just to be thorough.

    My success with the line is much more modest than yours: as I’ve mentioned before, out of four I tried I love (meaning – thinking about the FB) Rubj extrait and absolutely cannot wear Rubj EdP and Onda in both versions: the skunk just never leaves my skin!

  2. Ines says:

    I’m sure he will. ;)

    I’m very glad to hear you like them all – I always like reading people like the same perfumes I do. :)

  3. Persolaise says:

    I enjoyed reading this.

    It’s funny, but I didn’t think of the EDPs as being “completely” different from the extraits. I found the differences quite discernable, but the basic idea or ‘spirit’ of the original extrait was quite intact.

  4. andrea says:

    Its funny how you can either be completly on the same page as LT or completly at odds with his ‘masterpieces’, seems like this line is worth seeking out for a sniff though, they sound gorgeous (apart from the ravished Ballerina skank, I don’t take very well to skank no matter how much I want to like something, Aramanthine I am looking at you) :-)

    • Olfactoria says:

      I would have said (and did too) the same thing a few years ago, but the skank tolerance seems to go up over time. ;) I keep going back to things I have hated earlier and often come away with a surprise love sitting right there in my abandoned samples drawer.

  5. vanessa says:

    Haven’t tried any of these, but regarding Rubj, I am weighing up my fear of an “onslaught of skankiness” vs my desire to smell like a “ravished ballerina”. The dancer’s winning at the moment! : – 0

  6. Tara says:

    Loved reading about the different incarnations of these three fragrances. I think Onda extrait is the one that fascinates me the most, particularly as it is your “coat of armor”.

  7. Sugandaraja says:

    Happy to see you’ve tried the bunch. I really must try Kiki ( in any form! )

    Interesting you don’t like Rubj EdP for the dirtiness – I’m not that fond of the parfum due to its overly sudsy clean note!

  8. deeHowe says:

    Birgit, everything that you write about sounds so good! After reading a review, I always have to give myself a little pep talk that goes something like this:
    “hey you, everything in your collection isn’t boring, and you do NOT need a bottle of (insert reviewed perfume name here).”
    ;)

    • Olfactoria says:

      No, no, no! You are the one with the perfectly curated collection! It is not boring at all! And your package should be there soon, with a bit of Onda to try. (I almost hope for your sake that you hate it, since it is a serious trial for the wallet!)

  9. Thank you for this post, I have been very excited about these scents and it’s all because of your reviews! My samples came yesterday and I can’t wait to try them, I did receive Kiki in EDP by mistake so I have to wait a bit longer for the Extrait to arrive, but at least I can try it in both concentrations I guess :D

    • Olfactoria says:

      It is great you can compare the two concentrations, there are significant differences. And you can compare it to A Taste of Heaven, a cousin of the Kikis. :) Ah, wielding my influence makes me feel so powerful! *plotting-world domination-style laughter*

  10. So glad to hear your admiration for Vero Kern’s work! I love them, and reach for them frequently. I love your image of Onda extrait as your coat of armor. When I have a day just for me, Onda extrait is the perfume I reach to apply. I’ve never found anyone in my circle who likes it. Once, I ran by the office wearing it, to drop off documents, and one of the staff trailed me, asking “Do you smell that? Is it mold? What is that odd smell?” I smiled quietly, and continued to enjoy my day. Not everyone gets the earthy beauty of coriander mixed with vetiver and patchouli.

    I love Rubj in EdP and Kiki best in EdP. In my area’s hot, humid climate, the passion fruit opens both the scents, and makes them more. . .rounded? Rubj extrait is very stridently orange on me, like orange flavored baby aspirin, with very little floral quality. The Kiki extrait’s lavender is sharp, harsh, and medicinal/synthetic on me. When the passion fruit, caramel, bergamot and cumin grace notes are added, the EdPs of Kiki and Rubj facinate me. Both move with a fluid beauty, like fire in an opal, which changes with different angles of view.

    I look forward to what this perfumer creates next! Thanks for your side by side reviews; it is great fun to try them all. Be well.

    • Olfactoria says:

      Hi Hemlock Sillage, lovely to hear from you! Onda is indeed not for everyone, but as you say, sometimes that doesn’t matter. :) All six have their charms and I’m very glad, I have discovered Vero’s perfumes. Thank you for adding your thoughts.

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  12. So I am finally getting to read the Kiki review :) It sounds very nice indeed. I will be sure and see if I can try it in both versions that you talk about.

  13. “Ravaged ballerina”? Ok, Rubj EDP is on my must-try list now!! =)

  14. holly says:

    I tried Rubj in EdP and extrait and found them completely different fragrances. The extrait was very berryish and fruity whereas the EdP came out a dark neroli that slid right into a cumin that makes me blush! I had to have it and got it. Sadly, while I smell like a thoroughly ravished ballerina, I’ve yet to find a fragrance that makes me look like one! But seriously, this is an astonishing fragrance. Onda in extrait is the way to go and I find it too very much of the “the body” and it creates a very intimate feeling. These two are stunning. Kiki on the other hand is hard for me to love. All I get is a very antisceptic lavender which I just can’t abide. Love ‘em or hate ‘em there’s no denying the artistry and quality of this line, I hope she doesn’t dumb down her creations to reach a broader market. I read that Rubj extrait was reformulated to tone down its animalics, if so, that could explain why I found it so one dimensional compared to the EdP.

    • Olfactoria says:

      Hello Holly, I don’t think Vero is the person to change her “babies” for commercial reasons, thank goodness. All her perfumes are a delight, and a refreshing exeption to the usual fare. I’m glad you like them. :)

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