Spurred on by the success of Promesse de l’Aube, I continued my exploration of both Kurkdjian creations and the Parfums MCDI line.
I chose Enlèvement au Serail also for its name – Die Entführung aus dem Serail (Abduction from the Seraglio) by W.A. Mozart is a great opera after all, and I always found the name very poetic.
Enlèvement au Serail was created by Francis Kurkdjian in 2006 and includes notes of bergamot, mandarin, ylang-ylang, jasmine sambac, tuberose, rose, wallflower, patchouli, sandalwood, vanilla and vetiver.
This is not a disappointment at all.
Enlèvement au Serail is a floral chypre, in the manner of the great classics of the genre, like Mitsouko or Femme de Rochas (both of which I appreciate for their artistry, but do not wear, although I have small vials for reference), but it is more modern, more wearable for me and lighter in its structure, the quality of the materials is amazing.
Enlèvement au Serail is incredibly familiar, it is nothing really new and never smelled before, but it is an incredibly well done variation on a theme.
Opening with a quick burst of citrus, the jasmine, rendered sweet and plush by the addition of tuberose and ylang-ylang, sings an aria well worthy of Mozartian heroines. The base is full of dark and mysterious, velvet-y patchouli and (it must be there!) oakmoss.
The top and heart are full and lush, with a great sillage, it quiets down after a couple of hours, but the base hums along forever. When applied duing the day, I still can smell traces of the warm, and soft late drydown full of vanilla and sandalwood accompanying the chypre base, the next morning.
It is a good thing perfumes like this are made in this day and age. Enlèvement au Serail, as well as Le Parfum de Thérèse have a wonderful vintage feel without the heartbreak attached. (I mean the reformulations, the hunt on ebay, the uncertainty of ever getting it again…)