Pandora, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz’s newest creation, has gotten a lot of attention already. And not only because a new DSH perfume is always interesting, but because it is a GREAT new perfume. Many have already written about it, so what is there left to say, that hasn’t been said already, what can I add to the canon of great smelling bloggers?
Well, what I can always add, my own perspective.
What is different for me, in comparison to other bloggers who have years of experience, is that I never wore the chypres of old. When I entered Perfumeland, most of the greats had been reformulated into something entirely different, had morphed into a new perfume, bearing only the name or not exisiting at all anymore. I have no experience with vintage scents, I have smelled one or the other, but I have no intimate knowledge, that comes from living in them. I never wore the original Mitsouko for example and I don’t particularly enjoy what is sold under that name today. While that makes me a bit sad, there is nothing I can do about it, and looking back is not helpful. Fortunately that is not necessary, looking forward, looking in the right places is all it takes.
Chypre is therefore a category I am not very familiar with. Funnily enough, I began re-investigating that particular genre with a renewed vigour, a few weeks before Pandora arrived at my doorstep, because I fell in love with Le Parfum de Thérèse, a fruity chypre and Parfums MDCI Enlévement au Serail, that impressed me with its oakmossy depth.
And then came Pandora…
The notes listed on DSH ‘s website are Aldehyde/Aldehydic, Bergamot, Cassis Bud, Davana, Green Peppercorn, Ozone, Pink Peppercorn, Ruby Red Fruits (botanical accord), Spice Notes, Violet Leaf Absolute, Cabreuva Wood, Centifolia Rose Absolute, Green Tea Absolute, Juhi Jasmine Absolute, Linden Blossom Absolute, Orris Root, Yerba Maté Absolute, Ambergris Tincture, Australian Sandalwood, Cyperus, Fossilized Amber, Green Oakmoss, Mousse de Saxe no.1 (botanical accord), Muhuhu, Patchouli co2, Tonka Bean Absolute, Vanilla Absolute and Vetiver co2.
There is a lot going on in Pandora, it is like an intricately woven tapestry, rich, colorful, but expertly woven, nothing is superfluous here, everything in its place.
Pandora is like a symphonic piece of music, masterfully executed by an orchestra, not only technically perfect, but loving the piece they are playing. High musicality and flawless technique combine to make this piece of music sublime.
Likewise the fragrant notes, in the magical hands of composer and conductor Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, arrange themselves to an operatic whole that is transporting and entirely satisfying. Out of a complicated and intricately woven fabric, emerges a thing of beauty.
Pure and simple.
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