Happy Birthday, Dawn! – DSH Mini-Reviews

Tomorrow is Dawn Spencer Hurwitz’s birthday, the incredibly talented perfumer from Boulder, Colorado, is one of the most prolific perfumers today. In addition she is an incredibly nice and generous person and I feel honored to know her.

I like many of her creations, my favorites are Mata Hari and the six perfumes that comprise the Italian Splendor Collection (Part 2, Part 3)

Let me celebrate he birthday by showcasing a little selection of her work – three “soliflores”.

Happy Birthday, Dawn!

Un Soir d’Eté Provencal: Includes notes of Bergamot, Bitter Orange, French Lavender, Lemon, Lime Peel, Rosewood, Centifolia Rose Absolute, Egyptian Rose Geranium, Grandiflorum Jasmine, Orris, spike (lavandin), Amber, Bay Laurel, Oppopanax, Patchouli, Peru Balsam, Tonka Bean and Vanilla Absolute.

Un Soir is a lavender perfume, my favorite among lavenders. I tend to find the note too harsh or masculine to wear, although I love it for scenting linens or rooms. Un Soir is a lavender I like to wear as a perfume, because the staring note, while still being prominent, is bedded so beautifully in a radiant bouquet of rose and jasmine, accented by sparkling citrus top notes and propped up on a solid and smooth base of amber, patchouli and balsamic notes, is perfectly showcased. Un Soir is fresh, uplifting and calming at the same time. The lavender is treated in such a way that I feel like walking through a lavender field in the Provence, as its name suggests, rather than feeling like a human sachet or a Laura Ashley curtain.

Eau de Fleurs d’Oranger de Roi Louis XV:  Includes notes of bitter Orange, Lemon, Italian Neroli, Orange Flower Absolute from France, Orange Flower Water, Ambergris and Petitgrain.

It is not very hard, to get me to love an orange blossom perfume, since I am a fan of the note’s golden aura, bearing instant happiness, but always trailing a shadow as well. This 100% natural perfume concentrates on that dualistic aspect of orange flowers, and gives it a salty twist with ambergris. If it’s been good enough for the French court…

American Beauty:  Includes notes of bergamot, Cassis Bud, Palma Rosa, Rosewood, Bulgarian Rose Absolute, Bulgarian Rose Otto, Centifolia Rose Absolute, Egyptian Rose Geranium, Moroccan Rose Absolute, Orris, Ciste Absolute, East Indian Patchouli, Mysore Sandalwood and Peru Balsam.

A rose, is a rose, is a rose. American Beauty is a very fruity rose. Cassis on top, rose as rose can in the heart, patchouli -sandalwood as a base. No need to explain further…

Lautrec:  Notes include bergamot, Cognac, Davana, Passionfruit, Sweet Absinthe, Cassie Absolute, Moroccan Rose Absolute, Orange Flower Absolute from Spain, Orris, Sambac Jasmine, Ylang-Ylang, Australian Sandalwood, Benzoin, Caramel, Civet, Indian Patchouli, Labdanum, Moss and Tolu Balsam.

Lautrec is a gourmand with a fruity chypre twist. When I wear it, the soundtrack of Moulin Rouge starts up in my head and the multitude of color and sound, the Baz Luhrman movie unleashed upon us, is perfectly distilled in this tiny bottle. It is Montparnasse circa 1880, only not quite that crazy. :) I love it!

I could go on and on, the gems in DSH’s portfolio are numerous.

What is your favorite DSH fragrance? Or which one would you love to try?

Please chime in with your DSH experiences, I’m sure Dawn will be happy about our little birthday present!

Image source: cafleurebon.com, metroflowerdelivery.com
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About Olfactoria

I'm on a journey through the world of fragrance - come with me!
This entry was posted in Chypre, DSH, Floral, Fruity, Gourmand, Orange Blossom, Rose and tagged , , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

41 Responses to Happy Birthday, Dawn! – DSH Mini-Reviews

  1. Happy birthday to Dawn! I just had the opportunity to visit her shop again recently, and had a wonderful time chatting with her. On this visit I picked up a small bottle of Mahjoun; I think it will be perfect as the weather cools. I also thought of your reviews when I tested a few of the Italian Splendour collection. :)

    • Olfactoria says:

      You met her? That is great! I would so love to visit her shop in Boulder.
      Did you like the Italian Splendor scents? I find them very good and love their inspirations.

      • A visit to her shop would be far for you, but I’m sure it would be worth it. :) I thought both of the Italian Splendor scents I tried were good (not surprising) and liked Venice really well. But of course with Dawn’s perfumes it is easy to get distracted because there are so many and so many of them are good, and I got very distracted by Mahjoun. I am also looking forward to her holiday scent, and to a new perfume she has coming out in a few weeks.

  2. civava says:

    Happy birthday Dawn! So many great perfumery to choose between it is hard to decide. And if I’m honest I would like to try them all. I like to explore especially when it comes to quality perfumes such as Down’s. Thank you for sharing your passion with us!

  3. Undina says:

    Happy birthday, Dawn! May every day be creative – even if you do not spend it creating those great perfumes that bring joy to so many people. And twice as creative if you do.

  4. Happy Birthday Dawn! I am ashamed to say that I haven’t tried any DSH fragrances yet, I’m terrible I know!

    Un Soir d’Eté Provencal and American Beauty sound like they would be right up my street so on to the list they go. Thanks for bringing them to my attention :D

  5. Vanessa says:

    Happy Birthday to Dawn! My favourite scent would have to be Cimabue, a cosy, spicy saffron and vanilla number, followed by Nouroz (the scent formerly known as Tamarind Paprika), a dusty, softly spicy, bone dry, fruity perfume. I have tried a fair few but none of these, as it happens. She is so prolific…

    Kicking myself that I have been to Boulder, but this was in my pre-perfumista days, sadly. Gotta love a place with a hotel called Boulderado!

    • Olfactoria says:

      I have been to Boulder as well in my pre-Perfumista days, chances are not so high to come that way again…

      Cimabue is really lovely. Nourouz is Tamarind Paprika -I didn’t know that! I now have both iterations (thanks to you!). :)

  6. masha7 says:

    Happy Bday, Dawn! I thought Viridian was one of the most unusual greens I’ve ever tried, I was very impressed (love the greens!).

  7. Ines says:

    Even though I feel lucky to have tried many of her perfumes (and pretty much want all of them in larger quantities), I haven’t tried any of those you reviewed here and I like the sound of all of them. :)
    So, it’s her birthday tomorrow? I’m glad you told us, I hope she enjoys your gift. :)

    Btw, saying which one is my favourite is mission impossible – I love Piment et Chocolat, Festive, Bois du Chocolat, Tamarind/Paprika, Cimabue and the list just goes on…

  8. Sigrun says:

    I dearly love the Perfum Luxe. It’s classy, long lasting, great for every occasion and just smells soooooooo good! Happy Birthday Dawn :)

  9. deeHowe says:

    What a great birthday present!

    I have only tried a couple of Dawn’s fragrances, though I have a virtual shopping cart full to bursting! I will dig out my Cardamom and Kyphi sample today in honor of her work.
    Lautrec sounds really, really good, and Cimabue has been in my sniff list for ages… I think I will like both of them!

    That is such a beautiful photo of Dawn, BTW!

  10. Lavanya says:

    Happy Birthday Dawn!!
    I haven’t tried any of Dawn’s scents but I have a long list of DSH lemmings including Medici, Cimabue, Nouroz, 1000 lilies (I could go on..:))

    Oh- btw, I wanted to ask you, when are you going to be in NYC? I will be in D.C for a conf. the second week of Nov and was contemplating an NY trip..

  11. Yay, happy birthday, Dawn! I must be biased here and say that my favorite DSH creation is the one she is making for me. It’s almost done, just tweaking now, but it’s so stunning I could cry. I can’t wait for you all to get a chance to try it!

  12. Suzanne says:

    A couple years ago, someone sent me a small bottle of DSH Quinacridone Violet, which is like a bright, delicious kiss of fruits and violets…innocent and wanton in equal measure. It’s the only DSH fragrance I’ve tried, but I love it and will someday order some of those Italian Splendor collection scents you reviewed this summer. (Might have to order the Lautrec you describe above, too!)

    Happy Birthday, Dawn (from a fellow Virgo)!

  13. Tara says:

    Such a lovely birthday tribute, B. I hope you post it onDawn’s Facebook page, she would be so touched.

    The DSH creation I would most like to try is Oeillets Rouge because I suspect it’s the carnation fragrance I’ve been searching for ever since I got into perfume (especially after Undina recommended it to me too). Although I now really want to try Nourouz/Tamarind Paprika after what you and Vanessa have said about it!

    • Olfactoria says:

      I posted it on her wall now, since you said she’d like that. I hope people don’t think I’m spamming them with my links. *worries* Must remember to send you some DSH goodies next time.

  14. JoanElaine says:

    What a lovely idea – a birthday post celebrating Dawn and her work. Happy Birthday, Dawn!

    My favorite DSH /Essense fragrances are Kohl Gris, Twelfth Night and Une Robe de Zibeline (which must not be available anymore?). I would love to try Vert pour Madame, Muguet Cologne and Medici – which you sold me on with your review.

  15. TaffyJ says:

    Happy birthday, Dawn! May your wishes all come true!

    I’ve tried a couple of DSH samples and am very taken with Minuit. One of my favorites of the Summer of Patchouli Love sample set was Dawn’s BodhiSativa (or #11 :) The one I’ve been wanting to try is 1000 Lillies. I think I will head over to Dawn’s web page and see what trouble I can get into!

  16. angie Cox says:

    Happy birthday Dawn and thank-you for American Beauty .

  17. Eva S says:

    You have really whetted my appetite for Dawns scents, if you live in Europe, whats the easiest way to get your hands on some?

    • Olfactoria says:

      I order directly from Dawn’s site. A selection of her perfumes are stocked at Sündhaft in Munich (www.suendhaft.com), but only a few and quite expensive too.
      Her own site also offers samples of everything and very nice sample packs, I suggest that is the way to go if you plan on diving in. Have fun! :)

  18. jedennard says:

    Happy (late) birthday to Dawn! I have not tried any of her perfumes. But Un Soir is the first one I want to try. It sounds lovely.

  19. I’m such a DSH fangirl. I love so many of her creations. My favorite is the newest, Pandora. Before that I loved Cafe Noir, Gingembre and Lautrec.

  20. Pingback: People In Perfumeland – Dawn Spencer Hurwitz of DSH Perfumes | Olfactoria's Travels

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