Carner Barcelona is new niche house created by Sara Carner. She launched two perfumes last year and is coming out with a third – Cuirs – in the fall.
I was lucky to receive samples (the carded samples of the house are very generously sized and come with a sprayer, a fact that makes me happy, that is how we like it!) and since D600 for one is not very descriptive when it comes to the perfume itself (didn’t we just discuss this?), I had no expectations.
-from the website
What I found behind that name – it stands for Avenida Diagonal 600, the headquarters of the line in Barcelona – is a spicy iris that is at once new and familiar.
D600 was created by Christophe Raynaud at Givaudan and includes notes of black pepper, bergamot, grapefruit, cardamom, iris, jasmine, cedar, vanilla and vetiver.
D600 opens fresh and citrusy, a blast of pepper spicing up the sparkling bergamot and grapefruit notes. But soon the floral notes arrive, soft, smooth, very feminine and tender. The iris is most prominent to my nose, a light grey, vaguely powdery iris laced with cardamom, one of my favorite spice notes. This iris is not cold and forbidding, but inviting and soft. It is accompanied by a white jasmine that is round and muted, not loud or domineering at all.
The heart is my favorite part of the perfume, it is bewitching in its simple and unassuming beauty. The drydown is a soft woody vanilla-vetiver blend, where I would have loved the emphasis to be more on the vanilla than the vetiver, since this vetiver has a tendency to turn a bit harsh and bitter on me, which is a bit jarring after the loveliness that is the top and heart of D600. Over the course of its development the perfume turns from light grey with a rosy glow, to dark grey-green in my synesthetic mind.
I wouldn’t mind smelling like D600 at all, it reminds me of a Barcelona I only know from Carlos Ruiz Zafón’s excellent book “Shadow of the Wind”, a story about a boy named Daniel, who is initiated to a secret book store and allowed to take one book home. His choice, “The Shadow of the Wind” by an unknown author called Julian Carax, is fascinating and the boy tries to find out more about the author, but finds somebody else instead…
There are perfumes that allow you to do the same. As only the best perfumes do.