A big surprise for me this summer was how much I fell in love with a fragrance I didn’t expect much of at all. Untitled L’Eau, the new Eau de Toilette flanker to last year’s Untitled Eau de Parfum by designer Maison Martin Margiela is a pretty, all around lovely citrus and green fragrance with a surprising drydown.
Refreshing, happy and carefree, Untitled L’Eau reminds me of a younger and less elegant Chanel N°19 with more citrus.
Created by Daniela Andrier – and you smell her transparent and “elvish” (or is that “elven”?) style from the start – in 2011 Untitled L’Eau is an Eau de Toilette and includes notes of galbanum, buchu, spearmint, orange blossom, galbanum resinoid, lentisk, patchouli essence, incense, serenolide (a musk).
I have to admit I do not know the original Untitled and tried to procure a sample to compare the two, but unfortunately the sample got lost under mysterious circumstances, not to be unveiled here, suffice to say grubby little hands and a toilet were involved, the sample irretrievably lost before I could wear it or even smell it more than once.
This mishap aside, I think Untitled L’Eau is a lovely fragrance in its own right and very worth a sniff.
The perfume opens with a burst of bright green and citrus, the galbanum is not overly bitter, but still bracing and very refreshing, it is paired with buchu, an African herb also called Agathosma, meaning good smell, and a little mint note. In the beginning Untitled L’Eau smells very green, but is prevented from hitting you over the head with a galbanum fist by the strong citrus inflection.
In its heart the perfume becomes softer, warmer and displays a still green core of galbanum resin and patchouli, but is sweetened by orange blossom, this softly floral state holds up for an hour and then incense comes out and this slightly smoky darker green base holds up for hours. I am impressed with the staying power of this Eau de Toilette, I get at least six hours of wear time. Sillage is moderate to low.
I was on the lookout for a summer scent that wouldn’t be gone after a hot minute, that wouldn’t bore me to tears after two wearings, that wouldn’t smell like every other cologne style fragrance out there and that wouldn’t be similar to something I already have.
I thought that was at least a daunting, if not even impossible task, when this fragrance came into my hands by sheer chance.
Chance meetings have been known to change lives. I’m not saying Untitled L’Eau is life-changing, that would be taking it a little far, but it changed my mood for the better on many a day this past summer. And what more can you ask of a perfume?