You could say Infusion d’Iris was my first iris fragrance, albeit at a time when I didn’t know I really adored iris. Sounds strange? That’s because it is.
Prada’s Infusion d’Iris is a lovely fragrance. It has a special place in my heart. My friend Dee included a little decant in her package the other day that sent me searching the depths of my perfume cupboard and indeed – in there I found a small bottle of Infusion, bought when it was launched and later forgotten, pushed aside by more assertive colleagues.
I wore it again and remembered why I liked it in the first place. I have worn it several times since and that warrants a review for sure.
Notes include mandarin, orange blossom, galbanum, iris, incense, benzoin, cedar, lentisc and vetiver. Infusion d’Iris was created in 2007 by Daniela Andrier.
Luca Turin in his Perfumes – The Guide states the following about Infusion d’Iris:
[...] it contains no discernible Iris note and is a rather grey, nondescript woody masculine.
With all due respect to Mr Turin, I couldn’t disagree more. (The fact that I am a nobody makes sure he won’t be offended my my dissent. ;))
I do smell iris, I don’t find this perfume grey and non-descript at all and I don’t think it is particularly masculine (I think it would work equally well on both genders).
The Eau de Parfum I am reviewing here, (there is an Eau de Toilette version, released last year, if I am not mistaken, that I have not tried yet) is light, unobtrusive but has a lot more staying power than would be expected of such a discrete scent. Provided one doesn’t skimp on application (I use it lavishly, at least five sprays) it holds up wonderfully for at least four or five hours. Compared to Chanel 28 La Pausa that is not bad at all.
After the initial happy burst of mandarin is gone, the iris emerges soft, grey-green, powdery and a just a little earthy, propped up by galbanum and vetiver, with soft underpinnings of smokiness provided by incense and benzoin.
It reminds me of L’Heure Bleue and its sweetly-sad mood. But it is way softer and more muted, like seen through a veil.
I like its slightly chilly and remote softness, it feels like velvet on the skin. Greyish green velvet.
I wear it when I want something a little like L’Heure Bleue but less heavy in its introspectiveness, or when I want something a little like Bois d’Iris but more substantial and textured.
If someone asked me what perfume to get at the department store, I always recommend to seek out the Prada line, because aside from slight slips like Eau Tendre and Infusion de Tubereuse, all their perfumes are of high quality and done well.
Infusion d’Iris is one of the perfumes I can wear without thinking, that doesn’t start to bother me at some point during the day, as others can, no matter how much I love them.
It is versatile yet still retains a uniqueness, both these traits make Infusion d’Iris a staple in my collection.
Side note: A really great combination I discovered accidentally, is layering Infusion d’Iris with Rose Ikebana (Hermès). It adds a nice dose of pink to the grey, making it happier and, well, rosier. :)