In iris I have found a note I truly love. Its complicated range, its versatility, its many incarnations and interpretations that are all united by one descriptor – elegance – has made me a fan of this note.
Have I found a perfect iris perfume yet?
That is not an easy answer to give. I adore Iris Silver Mist. It is my favorite iris rendition, sadly it does not go down so well with my loved ones. Since I don´t particularly fancy being called a carrot the entire day, my search goes on, and Iris Silver Mist is reserved for days without those philistines (at least Niki does not complain, bless his good, little heart and inability to speak yet!).
The Iris to end them all is 28 La Pausa. It is a beautiful perfume, just what I wanted.
Of course there is a problem. Isn´t there always? ;)
28 La Pausa is great – for an hour. Maybe two hours, but that is it then. Am I really supposed to pay a lot of money for something so ephemeral? Am I supposed to reapply from my gallon bottle of Chanel Les Exclusifs every two hours? I know there are smaller sizes available now (2.5oz, 75ml), but that doesn´t solve the wear time problem, does it?
Should I want to smell like La Pausa the entire day, I would be going through a new, small bottle in no time. That is why the large ones make sense, but somehow the whole concept is skewed.
Dear decision-makers at Chanel: I would like to smell like 28 La Pausa for real, I don´t only want to own a pretty and large bottle because it says Chanel on it that makes me smell nice until the next gust of wind reaches me and blows it all away again. The solution seems simple and has been in use for centuries. Why not try a stronger concentration?!
It really doesn´t make sense to me. If it is about the money, nobody is saying make it cheap, we are willing to pay through the nose for the right perfume BUT only if we also get to enjoy it for a reasonable amount of time. It shouldn´t be so hard. It has been done before, you have the resources already, you probably have the bottles already AND you have the fan base already. So, why not? Why Not?
We all have one or more favorites among the Les Exclusifs, and I bet most of us would wish for a stronger concentration (why not give us the luxury of choosing between Eau de Toilette, Eau de Parfum and Extrait, Chanel is a luxury house after all), we should make ourselves heard. If every perfumista out there started
demanding suggesting higher concentrations, maybe something would happen.
I don´t think Chanel purposely wants to alienate and anger its customers. Am I wrong?
After that excursion, are you still up for a review? Here goes: ;)
28 La Pausa was launched in 2007 as part of the boutique-exclusive line Les Exclusifs de Chanel. Perfumer was in-house nose Jacques Polge.
It can be characterized as an iris-soliflore fragrance. It is all about iris.
In the beginning the iris is slightly vegetal, cold and soft. It develops into a green, powdery, fully rounded and slightly warmer iris. In that stage my nose is inseparable from my wrist and I am unable to utter anything more coherent than Hmm! or maybe Ahh! on an especially eloquent day. It is that beautiful.
This can be enjoyed for some time before the iris curls in on itself and leaves a soft musky skin scent behind that is warm and comforting. Then – pouf!- it is all gone and leaves me behind longing for more.
We have come full circle, before the ranting starts again, I leave you with some music that reminds me of the beauty of 28 La Pausa, that heartbreakingly fragile beauty.